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Discussion Starter #1
When I turn on the ignition everything powers up, including the fuel injector, but half the time the starter doesn't fire. Cilanoid doesn't even click. Just nothing. And the other half the time it fires and bike starts right up, but when I turn the handlebars it kills itself. So I took off the headlight and found the wire group going to the ignition button that kills the bike when they are adjusted, hence why it was dying when I turned the handlbars.

I Took off the bunch wrap expecting to find some ware and tear, but when I looked at each wire they are all fine. Also the headlight and speedometer lights flicker according to the position of this same bundle of wires.
Sometimes after messing with the wires enough, the bike just won't start no matter how I adjust them, and the only thing that fixes that is removing the master fuse and putting it back in. Fires right up almost every time I do that. What?

I just can't seem to isolate where the main issue is.
 

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It always helps if we know the year and model.
unplug each wire in the bundle that’s giving you problems. If the connector seems loose, pinch it with pliers a little to tighten it. Check for corrosion inside the connectors, bad insulation, discoloration. Spray each connection with anti corrosion electrical spray. Push the wire from each side back into the connector until it clicks. Same at the main fuse. It’s going to take patience. Probably nothing more than a connector that’s becoming loose or a little corrosion, but you could have a burnt or broken wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It always helps if we know the year and model.
unplug each wire in the bundle that’s giving you problems. If the connector seems loose, pinch it with pliers a little to tighten it. Check for corrosion inside the connectors, bad insulation, discoloration. Spray each connection with anti corrosion electrical spray. Push the wire from each side back into the connector until it clicks. Same at the main fuse. It’s going to take patience. Probably nothing more than a connector that’s becoming loose or a little corrosion, but you could have a burnt or broken wire.
The year is in the title, and I assumed since this is a monster forum people would know it was a monster.

The connectors all seem very sound, but I'll spray some anti-corrosive in there for good measure.

My main source of confusion is if it's a connector or corroded wire, why does taking the main fuse out and putting back in temporarily fix the issue?
 

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Just to add, and especially as it's around handlebar moving area, as Duc96cr said, but also, run your thumbnail (or fingernail) with a little pressure, along the length of each wire, if possible. wires can get squashed and break inside of outer plastic. Very hard to see, but can be felt as a lump or flat spot. As for removing fuse thing, electrical connections are like that, bad connection and at some point it loses current flow. sort of like rebooting a computer,(well, not exactly), plugging fuse back in can re- establish current. That's why I think could be a squashed wire hanging on by a thin strand, or as said a dodgy connection. have a good look at the main fuse itself also,
good luck finding.
 

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Turn the handlebars and watch carefully for wires that are getting bent or pulled on as you turn , especially at the point where power goes out. Kink in wire, discoloration, bare wire on the back side contacting frame. That’s why I just cut all the zip ties off . With power on you can then wiggle sections of wiring until the power goes out.
 

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A friend of mine had a similar issue, he ended up opening the kill switch housing and check cleaning the connections there, fixed it.
 
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