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I am a 3rd owner to this bike. I bought this from a friend that bought it from a collector. When I bought it, it only had 3500 miles on it. Me and my son may gave put about 1500-2000 on it, since December.

Anyways, just a while ago as I was coming home, it went dead. Fuel pump comes on, bike cranks, but just won't turn start up.

The only maintenance we had done to the bike was flush the clutch, This may have been 4 months ago. But, I did notice that my reservoir was really dark. Is there any chance this could be the issue? I wouldn't think so, but, I don't have much knowledge about bikes. I am still learning.

thanks
 

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Could be a million possible things. No loud expensive sounding noises? It just quit? With fuel injection it will probably come down to electrical one way or another. The first step is finding out whether the problem involves the ignition side of things or the fuel side. I'd see if the spark plugs are sparking first off.

Yeah the factory clutch setup is crap. The hose isn't very high quality. It's not a Brembo component like the brake lines. It doesn't have to meet any real standards or be DOT approved like the brake. They usually start turning black inside near the master cylinder from the fluid getting in between the layers of the hose. It begins to react with the materials inside turning it black and contaminating the rest of the system. The slave cylinder is not very tight either, which usually leads to having to bleed it regularly. And occasionally when your clutch pushrod seals start wearing out it can expose the internals of the slave cylinder leading to other problems. If I remember correctly, it just uses o-ring type seals instead of true hydraulic seals like the brakes and most of the better aftermarket slaves. Considering the short list of materials that are compatible with brake fluid aren't usually compatible with fuels and oil. Well, it tends to get worse. But that's a whole nother story. Gotta make it go vroom again first. I'd start with spark. But first check all the fuses and everything of course.
 

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+1 Check fuses. Look at the manual because some models have a main fuse not located with the rest of the fuses. Then I’d check the relays, especially ignition and fuel injection relays. Push wire connectors back together from both sides. Check the wiring at the solenoid. Bypass the solenoid with a wire directly from the battery to the starter post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Could be a million possible things. No loud expensive sounding noises? It just quit? With fuel injection it will probably come down to electrical one way or another. The first step is finding out whether the problem involves the ignition side of things or the fuel side. I'd see if the spark plugs are sparking first off.

Yeah the factory clutch setup is crap. The hose isn't very high quality. It's not a Brembo component like the brake lines. It doesn't have to meet any real standards or be DOT approved like the brake. They usually start turning black inside near the master cylinder from the fluid getting in between the layers of the hose. It begins to react with the materials inside turning it black and contaminating the rest of the system. The slave cylinder is not very tight either, which usually leads to having to bleed it regularly. And occasionally when your clutch pushrod seals start wearing out it can expose the internals of the slave cylinder leading to other problems. If I remember correctly, it just uses o-ring type seals instead of true hydraulic seals like the brakes and most of the better aftermarket slaves. Considering the short list of materials that are compatible with brake fluid aren't usually compatible with fuels and oil. Well, it tends to get worse. But that's a whole nother story. Gotta make it go vroom again first. I'd start with spark. But first check all the fuses and everything of course.
Yes, it just went dead. Like I killed it, but it does everything but start so I can ride.

I just got it home and have checked for spark, both plugs good on the engine casing.

I have just drained the tank. Luckily I was only half full, I was running out of places to put gas

I will worry about the clutch after I get it running again


thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
+1 Check fuses. Look at the manual because some models have a main fuse not located with the rest of the fuses. Then I’d check the relays, especially ignition and fuel injection relays. Push wire connectors back together from both sides. Check the wiring at the solenoid. Bypass the solenoid with a wire directly from the battery to the starter post.
I will check my manual. I have a row of fuses, and 2? relays under my seat.

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Yes, it just went dead. Like I killed it, but it does everything but start so I can ride.

I just got it home and have checked for spark, both plugs good on the engine casing.

I have just drained the tank. Luckily I was only half full, I was running out of places to put gas

I will worry about the clutch after I get it running again


thanks
Sorry man. At least one thing is ruled out. Perhaps on the the injector relay?
 

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As Duc96cr said, there is a main fuse separate from the fuse block. Number 19 on diagram. It's a 40amp fuse,
also might be 2 small 3 amp ones here too, next to battery terminal.(20)

224948



Beware of jumping down the rabbit hole.
Keep the testing simple, You need 3 things for motor to run, correct spark, correct fuel and sound motor with correct timing.
Before diving into the fuel system, and pulling things out, I always recommend a simple test.
You have checked there is spark, yes, that's one thing.
Get yourself a can of 'engine start spray' most auto parts places have something, here in Aus. It's called...'start ya bastard', by Nulon.
Lift tank, remove air filter lid and open throttles, one spray down each throttle body, release throttles and try to start normally. Ensure you have put spark plugs back in etc.

This simple test will tell you if the motor is sound, it will fire up, if only for a few seconds.
1. If it fires up using spray, then the fault is... no fuel in the fuel system and then go ahead to troubleshoot that. It also tells you ignition timing is ok.
2. If it does not fire up, repeat with spray, if nothing, you have bigger problem, ignition timing, belts gone, timing, valves, etc. etc. you get the point.
Hope this helps.
 

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This is going to sound incredibly stupid. BUT, it actually did happen to me a long time ago.
I somehow knocked the kill switch off when going down bumpy track, you know, the one on the handlebar switch.
Then again, you did say there was spark, so maybe not.
It took 3 mechanics an hour to work it out though, lights on, bike cranks etc. just no start. very funny at the time.:rolleyes:
 

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If the kill switch is in the OFF position the fuel pump won't prime. If you can, look inside the tank and inspect the fuel hose from Pump to filter and Filter to Fuel delivery pipe (you may need to remove the fuel cap assembly, cheap but a PITA). I had the fuel line on my 900ssie degrade and spilt so rapidly that the bike just coughed and died (Thank you Petrol with Ethanol in it). After trying a ton of things including replacing the Cranksensor, 5 Bucks worth of fuel-line fixed it.

Chris
 

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Happened to me on the freeway one day. The casing on a wire beneath the seat had worn away. Simple fix, just wrap the wire with e-tape.
 

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I have my 2000 M900S I.E. since new.
Check the relay connections on the right side, where everything comes together and is a choke point.
It's exposed but partially covered with a cheesey rubber boot that holds water and will corrode enough to create gremlins downstream. Wire brush everything, and see what happens. If the pump cycles, and you have spark, it's there or downstream to the injectors....I.E. Fuel not getting to the mill.

First time it happened to me, it was on a long ride to the Bad lands, and the damn nut backed off the connection, rain got in there, and a pocket tool saved the day.

The clutch lines are a whole 'nother bucket of snakes, and I'm all ears and looking too!
Been getting by, with simply purging the hydro every spring, but it's getting old, and sooner or later it wont be enough.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have no idea why my reply to this post never posted up. BUT, my initial issue was thankfully, very simple. The PO did not slide the filter clamp down all the way and it eventually worked it's way back off.

After 3 weeks of us riding around, I went t crank it this morning, and it would run for a minute and bog down. I could just about keep it running using the throttle, but as soon as I let off it would die.

So, I am back to square one again. I also bought a new filter. As, since I am in the I might as well change it
 

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Sounds like it's time to dig a little deeper. I guess my next step would be checking for good fuel pressure. Downstream from the regulator first, and if it turns out weak, check it upstream from the regulator as well. Provided your gauge can handle the full pump pressure. If you don't have one, I would suggest investing in one. Doesn't need to be Snap-On or anything like that, just a gauge rated for fuels and the fittings necessary to T into the fuel lines. A 150psi would be about right. I should handle the full pressure side, but be accurate enough to check the regulated side as well.

First thing that I'd try though, because it costs absolutely nothing. Screw the idle air screws all the way in. If it is indeed starving for fuel, it may improve slightly by cutting off a portion of the air. Then just for kicks, back them out 2 full turns and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like it's time to dig a little deeper. I guess my next step would be checking for good fuel pressure. Downstream from the regulator first, and if it turns out weak, check it upstream from the regulator as well. Provided your gauge can handle the full pump pressure. If you don't have one, I would suggest investing in one. Doesn't need to be Snap-On or anything like that, just a gauge rated for fuels and the fittings necessary to T into the fuel lines. A 150psi would be about right. I should handle the full pressure side, but be accurate enough to check the regulated side as well.

First thing that I'd try though, because it costs absolutely nothing. Screw the idle air screws all the way in. If it is indeed starving for fuel, it may improve slightly by cutting off a portion of the air. Then just for kicks, back them out 2 full turns and see what happens.
Thanks. I will check the idle air screws.

I'm new to motorcycles 7-8 months now, so learning to working them way sooner than I'd like.

A couple worker sent me a site that had a lot of manuals on it CS(?). Not sure if it's ok to link. If you know the initials, are they good manuals to use?

Thanks again
 

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I believe I know which site you're referring to. Yes I've downloaded a few things from it and haven't encountered any problems so far. However I always use my phone or tablet for things like that and not my desktop. Just to be on the safe side.

I understand it can feel like more trouble than it's worth at times. In the end you'll just have to decide whether or not it's something you want to have in your life. It's definitely a learning process. For me, working on them and learning how they work, (And why sometimes they don't) is just part of the package. I don't know it all by any means, but I know a little. Most of which I learned the hard way. But I definitely have no regrets in the time and effort I've invested in it. Perhaps you'll end up finding it as rewarding as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I believe I know which site you're referring to. Yes I've downloaded a few things from it and haven't encountered any problems so far. However I always use my phone or tablet for things like that and not my desktop. Just to be on the safe side.

I understand it can feel like more trouble than it's worth at times. In the end you'll just have to decide whether or not it's something you want to have in your life. It's definitely a learning process. For me, working on them and learning how they work, (And why sometimes they don't) is just part of the package. I don't know it all by any means, but I know a little. Most of which I learned the hard way. But I definitely have no regrets in the time and effort I've invested in it. Perhaps you'll end up finding it as rewarding as well.
I finally was able to get the pump out. I have not tried the idle air screws yet as I had already drained the tank to check the filters.

My strainer was torn. I had already ordered some since I was replacing the fuel filter. I bought them from "high flow fuel." The new strainers are significantly longer. As long as they connect to the pump and I can place them to wear they don't kink/bend, should the be ok to work?

My next step, I would imagine is trying to figure out if trash has gone further into the system and how to flush it.
 

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Well a torn strainer shouldn't be too much cause for alarm as long as the fuel filter is still doing it's job. And it's getting changed out anyway. So that's good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm not sure who is watching over me, but thanks!!

After getting the strainer and new filter put in, I still had issues. And even the next day, it would not start at all, not even for a second

I noticed it sound like spraying inside my tank. Took it back off and noticed that my hose from the filter had a split in it. Replaced it, and it fired right up. I took it around the block.

But with weather going in, I won't be able to get it out for a few more days probably to be able to take it out and ride it

Hoping this is all, time will tell.

Thanks again
 
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