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Hi everyone. I am new to the forums and wanted to say thanks for all the info I have already gotten just from browsing he forums while looking for answers to some questions I had earlier. I wanted to share this experience with you as well as get some good insight and helpful hints and tips from you guys on what I have. I recently as of today purchased a 1999 Ducati M900 off craigslist for a whopping $500 with a title! The owner said they don't know what's wrong with the bike and called me to see if I wanted to buy it. (I have a wtb craigslist as for broken bikes) I figured I couldn't go wrong for the price. First thing I saw when I went to pick it up was wow this thing looks great for its age and is pretty solid. Has all the pieces and some carbon fiber bits here and there as well as what look to be aftermarket wheels( maybe someone can correct me or tell me which kind of wheels they are) I gave the man $500 and went home to start tinkering. First thing I did was put a battery charger on it and while I had the tank up, I noticed fuel leaking from the tank where the bracket is and it looks like someone welded a few stitch welds to fix someone's mistake but it was still leaking either from there or the sending unit. I continued with charging and pulled the sending unit off to put some thread tape on the threads after I drained all the gas. I noticed a gasket in there that needs to be replaced instead of using thread tape so I put some on it for safe measure and put the sending unit back in until I can order a new gasket. Got the battery charged and try to turn it over but nothing. After looking inside the handlebar mount switch for corrosion or loose wires, I found the wire going to the ignition solenoid to be disconnected! I immediately laughed and hoped that was all it was! I put the tank back on and put a little bit of gas back in and it didn't seem to be leaking anymore and the bike fired right up! Viola! A few laps around the block up the road and back and finally to get gas after a first trip but forgot debit card and the thing started sputtering on me while riding so I immediately turned around and headed back. The bike made it 100 yards and died! My girlfriend brought some gas to me and it started for a second then died again. I'm at a loss of words at this point and frustrated. Get the bike home and do some research and start digging in and came across the following. The bike won't take a charge for Any amount of time longer than one time to crank it. Sometimes the starter button works and sometimes you get nothing. I found a bolt where the oil pressure sensor goes and no wire anywhere near that should be going there. Also a ground wire behind the foot rest on the pass side that bolts to the motor but is disconnected at the other end. The red wire coming off the battery looks like the plastic has gotten hot and melted into the cable. Also, the brake switch for the rear brake has no spot to go and was zip tied up and when you press it the light goes dim so I can imagine and I just realized that probable needs to be mounted somehow where it constantly touches the brake pedal then when you wash the pedal, it comes off the switch. I have never owned one of these bikes before and my first thing I'm thinking is someone jacked with the wiring and I really want to buy a complete new harness and start there. Any suggestions or ideas. Please let me know. Thanks -Tyler
 

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IDK how you're not in jail! you stole that thing. The belt covers alone cost almost the price you paid for the bike. The 1st thing you need to do is buy this: http://emsduc.com/product/lt-snyder-maintenance-guide-for-2v-ducati-3rd-edition/

All the problems you referenced seem like simple fixes. The only issue with swapping the harness is finding one that is unmolested for a 20yo fairly rare bike. Your starting issue is likely a bad starter solenoid, or one of the "lawyer switches" on the kickstand, clutch or the like. You should be able to put it right for short money.

Dig into LT's book and you'll be in good shape.

Peace
 

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If you don't know, be REALLLLLLLY careful messing with the tank if you're gonna weld it. Fuel fumes will be in there and will make it go Chernobyl on you.
 

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It's obvious your battery cable is shorting against the fuel tank too so first thing is no fuel leaks ! I see no reason to replace the whole harness, just fix all of your broken wires and shorts and try again. These are all common wiring issues with these bikes. Hopefully the shorted battery cable didn't screw up the charging system. Check voltage when you get the engine running. The other thing is it's curbed and the carbs are likely clogged. Search the forum for threads on carb rebuilding.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the kind words and responses. As far as the wiring harness, I found one online and bought it. It just came in and gonna swap it in tomorrow as well as get a new voltage regulator. The bike has been starting and running fine it only acted up when it was hot which leads me to think the regulator got hot and didn't want to work right. I plan to completely flush the gas tank and let it air dry for a while before putting any spark to it lol. That would make youtube top 10 idiots or some dumb "insert word" lol

I will be ordering the manual you suggested and always be able to have it with me if I need it for any maintenance issues. I was wondering if any of you guys' bikes have the ground wire on the back left of the motor and if so, when it comes off the motor where does it go to? Also, what should voltage be with the bike running? I want to check this before and after I swap the harness over. Thanks -Tyler
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also wanted to add that when the bike runs it runs great, just that issue with not wanting to start or run when it's hot. The carbs are fcr41 carbs which I believe are aftermarket, someone correct me if I am wrong and the bike runs awesome!
 

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The FCR's alone are worth what you paid for the bike. Damn Son that was some score! They are most def aftermarket. Ground wire off the case over the swingarm pivot goes to the neg battery terminal. I don't have a voltmeter on my bike, but I'm guessing 13.5-13.7V when running.
 

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if the bike will charge enough for it to crank one time and then kaput, my money says its a bad battery, and MAYBE cables. pick up a new batterylocally, and spend $40 here:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly

the problem with the rear brake switch is the fact that it has a cheap set of Ducabike(or knock-off) rearsets which, by design, dont have a place for the rear brake switch to be mounted. the easy solution is to find stock rearsets for cheap/free and install them properly. the problem with that is that a bike of this vintage also has the passenger pegs built into the rearsets, and can be ugly with an aftermarket exhaust. the cheap solution is to use a Wilwood banjo bolt pressure switch and extend the brake switch wires. see this:
https://www.revzilla.com/product/woodcraft-brake-light-switch

with the bike giving you crap when its hot, id suspect the voltage regulator. these are in a crappy place from the factory and tend to overheat and fail. look into an upgrade regulator/rectifier, or install an oem replacement but flip it upside down below the seat to allow more cool air to flow over it

finally, without knowing your static compression ratio, or head modifications, i would assume the engine is stock, and therefor the FCR41's are overkill. a common problem with modifying any engine is that a popular method is "bigger is better", and in the case of carbs, the FCR39s will outperform the 41s in most anything shy of a high compression 944 with some sort of cam upgrade and head work. that doesnt mean the 41's wont perform, it will just take more fiddling and re-jetting to get them "right".

take your time, spend a little money making the bike right, and enjoy the bike for what it is. you made a hell of a score already. while i have no idea what wheels those are, or if they even belong on a monster, you could sell the carbs and get your money back. the rest is profit if need be ;)
 

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Forget trying to mount the brake light switch on the rear. After dicking around with my Dukabike's If your local laws require it, get a banjo bolt switch like cmross said. If you want to go back with the OEM rearsets (don't), I have a set I bead blasted and repainted with new pegs I will let go for a reasonable amount.
 

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If you don't know, be REALLLLLLLY careful messing with the tank if you're gonna weld it. Fuel fumes will be in there and will make it go Chernobyl on you.
Yep. I had to get my tank fixed after a crash and a leak. I had a radiator shop steam clean it and then an old hot-rodder leaded the tank for me. So far, no problems.
 
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