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Hey guys, is there anyone using a 14 tooth front sprocket with much success?? I use my bike daily and dont usually go much faster than 160ish Kph (100mph), although I have been known break tjhe 200 kph mark every now and then.

Will I notice a big difference reduction is speed?? Does the bike run even rougher when carpark cruising in first gear??
 

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Go look at #1 at References to useful posts and if the question isn't answered by one of those posts, come back and ask again.

Quick answer: put on a 14-tooth, you'll love it.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I put a 14 tooth front sprocket on my new S4R because the dealer recommended it saying they came "geared too high." At 6000 rpm, I'm still able to do 100 mph on the freeway and it really rips in the lower gears as well. Accelerates faster than my 916 did, in fact.
 

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I've been thinking about replacing the front sproket ... i've got a 99 750 ... should i go with just a 14T in the front or also up the teeth in back? if i do both will i need to replace the chain?
 

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The 14 tooth front sprocket is one of the cheapest and best first mods...

Taking off is so much easier, the bike feels better 'set up', on the hiway the effect of the smaller gearing is noticable but minimal

Get it, I've never heard of someone getting a lower gearing front or back and not digging it
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Just did my change to a 14t 2 weeks ago. It's a really big difference. All I really wanted were wheelies, for some reason I couldn't get it stock, now no prob. Yeah, acceleration is definately much better too. I still do about 180kph to work.
 

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OK i'm getting a 14T front sproket .. does it matter which one i buy? i'm looking at this one from ca-cycleworks:

Afam 14T 525 c/s All 52608-14 $29

Supposed to be for all applications. Will this one work for me on my 99 M750??
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Go look at #1 at References to useful posts and if the question isn't answered by one of those posts, come back and ask again.

Quick answer: put on a 14-tooth, you'll love it.
WHERE is the Reference to "useful" post thread, anyway? Does one need to do a search to find it, or will you just post a link every time someone asks a repeat question? ::)
 

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No, you want the 520 pitch one just above it that is the 52604-14.

I'm pretty sure that the Initial Order Receiving and Critiquing Cleark (that's me) would figure this out pretty quickly before the order went to the warehouse goon (that would be me) for pulling.

Technically, the 525 pitch sprocket would fit on your bike, but then the chain and rear sprocket wouldn't work. :) :)

:) Chris

OK i'm getting a 14T front sproket .. does it matter which one i buy? i'm looking at this one from ca-cycleworks:

Afam 14T 525 c/s
 

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No, you want the 520 pitch one just above it that is the 52604-14.

I'm pretty sure that the Initial Order Receiving and Critiquing Cleark (that's me) would figure this out pretty quickly before the order went to the warehouse goon (that would be me) for pulling.
One other trick thats caught the critiquing clerk and warehouse goon at _my_ supplier out, is that (at least my) '99 M750 runs the narrower rear wheel, and so although they run the same part number sprocket as the 900's, they mount the sprocket the other way around on the shaft. The sprocket has about a 10mm "shoulder" on it - it seems the 900's run this sholder pointing in while the 750s run with it pointing out (presumably to allow the chain to run closer in to give the same clearance on the narrower rear wheel). Unfortunately, the box full of sprockets on the shelf there have the "shoulder" mostly machined off - not a problem for the 900's. but on my 750, the retaining plate is supposed to bolt up against the shoulder which isn't there on these sprockets. Thats why I'm currently running a new chain on 30,000km old sprockets :-(

big
 

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Chris, do you think i should go up on my rear sproket as well? will that cause chain length problems? I'm going to just order the 14T sproket for now but might go up on the back ... just haven't decided yet. thanks.
 

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Even though the outer hoop of your rear wheel is narrower, the hub is dimensionally identical to OEM wheels with 5.5" rear hoops. We did this swap on a couple of our bikes already, as have hundreds of others...

I get the feeling your swingarm is not shimmed properly.

Chris

One other trick thats caught the critiquing clerk and warehouse goon at _my_ supplier out, is that (at least my) '99 M750 runs the narrower rear wheel, and so although they run the same part number sprocket as the 900's, they mount the sprocket the other way around on the shaft. The sprocket has about a 10mm "shoulder" on it - it seems the 900's run this sholder pointing in while the 750s run with it pointing out (presumably to allow the chain to run closer in to give the same clearance on the narrower rear wheel). Unfortunately, the box full of sprockets on the shelf there have the "shoulder" mostly machined off - not a problem for the 900's. but on my 750, the retaining plate is supposed to bolt up against the shoulder which isn't there on these sprockets. Thats why I'm currently running a new chain on 30,000km old sprockets :-(

big
 

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Giving in sounds easier to me...

I'm new here and would <never> have found the useful info thread if it had not been linked to... at work, we would probably create a thread of useful links to threads with useful info... just bury it in more indirection!

A link to that thread in the faq might not suck though, the faq is easy to find.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
That would mean people would need to check the FAQ, and that clearly doesn't happen. :-/
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I had the same concern and consulted many people. going down 1 tooth in front is like going up 3-4 in rear. JTSprockets.com has a gear ratio guide to help you. I just got the 14 tooth front in and staying with stock rear size. this is suppose to give better around town driving and does not dramatically reduce top speed.

Depending on milage and chain condition I would sugest getting both front, rear, and new chain at the same time for better reliability.
 

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Depending on milage and chain condition I would sugest getting both front, rear, and new chain at the same time for better reliability.
This is not absolute rule. If your bike is relatively new, no need for new chain. Changing to new steel sprockets does not wear the chain at different rate.

I have seen no evidence that steel sprockets wear over the normal life of a chain (12,000~16,000 miles). Even then, I look at the sprockets and wonder if I should change them. I figure if I do, it is for the best, reliability-wise, but I'm not 100% convinced it is necessary to always to do this.

:) Chris
 
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