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I think the real problem is, people not correctly setting up the rear brake. No bleeding properly, using nasty cheap brake fluid, in correct adjustment of the pin into the master cylinder.
I've had 2 monsters, and both had a woeful rear brake when I bought them. So bad the rear brake can only be described as non existent.
I did my thing, insulate the brake line near the header pipe, a thorough bleed of the system using a high temp racing brake fluid, and I never have a rear brake problem.
To me, I believe this is a poor user and service related problem.
 

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I had 1st gen and 2nd gen Tuonos, 2003 and 2007 models.
Both had shite back brakes even after bleeding service by a pro.
My 2014 Monster is the same.
I think it's an Italian thing.
 

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I had 1st gen and 2nd gen Tuonos, 2003 and 2007 models.
Both had shite back brakes even after bleeding service by a pro.
My 2014 Monster is the same.
I think it's an Italian thing.
Some so called pros, aren't very good. Im a carpenter, and if I can sort out my rear brake, then why the **** can't these so called pros. Im thinking there a lot crap tradesmen that aren't interested in looking after their customer as much as getting their pay cheque
 

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Started looking at the rear brakes to try and figure out what happend. There are two sets of wires running down around the rear wheel. I'm assuming one is the license plate light and the other is what? Speed sensor?
If the speed sensor shorts out could that be what caused the rear brakes to lock?
You speed sensor shorting out will have no affect on your brakes.
What would have happened is, you had very little or no free play on your rear brake peddle. Thus causing your pads to softly touch the rotor even when not applying the brake. After a little while your pads and rotor expand due to the heat generated from the lack of free play. More heat, more expansion. That will continue until you get total lock up or you disintegrate the pads. The heat generated to cause your lock up would have been enough to melt those wires.
 

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Thanks for the information. That makes sense. What brake fluid do you recommend? I'm going to adjust my master to allow more free play, flush the system, bleed, and see if the rear brake will function properly. Hoping I don't have to replace the calliper. Right now the pistons won't reset.
 

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Motul RBF 600
Motal RBF 660
Motal RBF 700
Castrol SRF Racing

These are all I use.

When you have completed your braked take the bike for a shake down run and carry with you a spanner to adjust the brake peddle. Be aware of the feel and the amount of play in the peddle.
Make adjustments until you get it how you like it.
 

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What brake fluid do you recommend?
+1 Castrol SRF Racing if you can afford it (and have a few bikes to do).
Otherwise Motul RBF 600 which does not absorbs humidity as fast as Motul RBF 660.
 

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+1 Castrol SRF Racing if you can afford it (and have a few bikes to do).
Otherwise Motul RBF 600 which does not absorbs humidity as fast as Motul RBF 660.
That's a interesting comment about the 660 absorbing humidity faster then the 600.
Can you explain why that is DarR? Im generally interested
 

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That's a interesting comment about the 660 absorbing humidity faster then the 600.
Can you explain why that is DarR? Im generally interested
I read a few reviews comparing the 600 vs the 660 for street and for track. Trying to find those could take me awhile. However, on Motul's website, they specifically mention that the 600 was developed for...and wet-weather conditions. Whereas, the 660 states that it's designed to resist the extreme temperatures generated in carbon and ceramic racing brake systems without any mention about wet-weather conditions. Personally, I find Motul's marketing too subtle. They should be stating which product is best for street vs racing and why. Bottom line: the 600 may not have to be changed as often.

Edit: found one of those reviews with a snippit attached below:
Screenshot from 2020-10-06 19:45:47.png

 
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searched your profile but couldn't find any posts?
Oh ok. I must have posted in another forum.
Anyway, on the pre 2014 monsters the rear brake line ran very close to the exhaust. I couldn't fit my finger between them.
So I heat wrapped the exhaust, put insulation tape around the brake line, then flushed through Motul 600.
I put 15000 kilometres on that bike in 2 years and never had a dodgy rear brake.
Maintenance was keeping an eye on the fluid, and when it went cloudy, I would flush fresh fluid through. I maybe did that 2 or 3 times in 2 years. I never lost the feel of my brake.
Im anal about my brakes working perfectly. So as soon as I saw the fluid going cloudy, the OCD in me took over.
Incidently, my clutch would require flushing more frequently then my brakes coz the fluid in the clutch reservoir would go cloudy quicker then the brakes . God knows why!!
 

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The new forum platform has bugs and lack of posts history is one of them.
 

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MONSTER 1200 NEWS:

New Brake Line Recall

I just had the rear brake line replaced under a new recall. The crimping ends of the banjo are now different.
It's a big job as the air-box must be removed to access the ABS module which the rear brake line is connected to.
Here's a few shots:
they had to remove ALL that just to change the lines (belt cover, exhaust, etc.)?! do you recall how many hours it took? my dealer said it's a full day. ducati north america contacted me about 'updating' my bike (changing the lines), since it's just hitting break-in miles i don't have any issues yet with my rear brakes. wondering if i should preemptively/preventatively do the fix now even though i don't have issues yet, as it seems quite an involved procedure just to do so.
 

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I'd wait until they recall the hastily contrived "Updated" brake lines in favor of a more realistic solution to the problem.
 

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My 1200R did this at the beginning of this riding season. I could press the rear pedal down and it provided no braking power.

I jammed a block of wood into the rear brake pedal to hold it down. I didn't ride the bike for more than a week, but when I got on it, the brake was back to normal and I haven't had it happen since, but also haven't let the bike sit for 5 months.

I don't understand why this happens. My ZX-14 has the caliper hung upside down similar to the Monster and I've never had a problem with it.
 
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