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the high point of the system is, the ABS itself and does trap air.
A fix I remember from years ago was to install banjo bleeders to top of ABS unit.
I think this was mentioned in a link here.

I struggle to think why have anti lock system on a brake which is, well, (censored). hardly works in the first place.
you would have to drop a small house on the lever to lock the back wheel.
this was from 1100 evo. not sure if it still applies.
good luck
 

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Really? You guys think tape is going to get into the system?

Use a narrow strip, make sure to not get it down onto the tapered part of the bleed screw. Once the bleeder is tightened down, the tapered part seats against the caliper and seals. No way anything's getting past it.

Even mityvac actually recommends using Teflon tape in one of their FAQ's.

2nd one down in link:

https://www.skf.com/mityvac/contact-and-support/faq/index.html
I think all suggestions that work is good. After all, there's no harm in trying.
I'll give it a boo if it acts up again. Right now, pumping the bejesus out of the ABS did the trick for me.
 

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MONSTER 1200 NEWS:

New Brake Line Recall

I just had the rear brake line replaced under a new recall. The crimping ends of the banjo are now different.
It's a big job as the air-box must be removed to access the ABS module which the rear brake line is connected to.
Here's a few shots:
 

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the high point of the system is, the ABS itself and does trap air.
A fix I remember from years ago was to install banjo bleeders to top of ABS unit.
I think this was mentioned in a link here.

I struggle to think why have anti lock system on a brake which is, well, (censored). hardly works in the first place.
you would have to drop a small house on the lever to lock the back wheel.
this was from 1100 evo. not sure if it still applies.
good luck
Tried that on my 1100 Evo ABS. Interfered with the fuel tank. Not enough room on mine. Bled them at the unions.
 

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MONSTER 1200 NEWS:

New Brake Line Recall

I just had the rear brake line replaced under a new recall. The crimping ends of the banjo are now different.
It's a big job as the air-box must be removed to access the ABS module which the rear brake line is connected to.
Here's a few shots:

Do you happen to know the recall info and what years are covered? I cannot get the Ducati recall page to recognize my VIN number.

EDIT: Got the page to work, it will not accept a copy/paste of the VIN. You must type each character. The recall on the brakes is only for 2015 and newer bikes, so those of us with 2014's are SOL.
 

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I don't have the number at hand for the Monster but It's a follow-up to these:

SRV-TBS-19-012
SRV-TSB-20-002

The Ducati recall page will recognize a copy and paste VIN number. Just make sure you don't have a blank space at the end of the number.
 

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I’ve heard that Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid apparently solves for this on Ducati’s because it works at a higher temp. Instead of Teflon there’s a product from Permatex called 54540 Pneumatic and Hydraulic Sealant. Has anyone used it before with success?
 

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I'm surprised no one has picked up on the close proximity the brake lines are to the exhaust.
How hot your exhaust get?
Don't you think that could be causing the brake fluid to over heat and eventually boil?

Wrap the pipe and more reflextive insulation on the brake lines
 

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I've read all these suggestions in various forums and other places. Doesn't seem like any one fix works for everyone, so it keeps getting asked about. The older models without ABS don't have this problem? Is that right?
 

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I always insulate brake lines and masters if they seem too close to exhaust. Insulate the pipe too. Experience has shown me not to wait for a problem with brakes when you can see in advance you’re going to have a problem. It does no good to complain about it. Fix it.
 

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There's a Recall on the 2015+ brake lines.
See post #22 above for more details.
 

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This just happened on my 2014 Monster 1200s. Just bought the thing a week ago. Was riding today and the back brake seized up. Managed to get it home safely. By the time i got home the brake had let loose and there is just a mushy pedal now. Talked to a Ducati shop who said the dealer probably didn't bleed the system properly and didn't allow enough free play in the pedal. I can confirm that there was very little play in the pedal to begin with.

Wonder how much it'll cost if I just took it in to get new pads and have the system bled properly.
 

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Started looking at the rear brakes to try and figure out what happend. There are two sets of wires running down around the rear wheel. I'm assuming one is the license plate light and the other is what? Speed sensor?
If the speed sensor shorts out could that be what caused the rear brakes to lock?
 

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This just amazes me. How can one motorcycle company have a rear brake problem for DECADES and not come up with a permanent fix ? How is that even possible. ? It’s not the same model bike, it’s not the same brake, pads, caliper, master, rotor, line. The only thing that stays the same is the brand on the tank ! This just seems ridiculous. How has Ducati avoided a massive recall on this ? How can one company have so many brake failures and still be in business ? Every time an owner of a newer model year posts a rear brake failure, I am amazed that another model year has gone by and Ducati is still selling bikes without reliable rear brakes. It’s got to be a record. RANT OVER, Return to normal programming.
 
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I wonder if Ducati dealerships even have the software to cycle the ABS modules to bleed them correctly? Considering they'd have to pay the unit's manufacturer for it probably not. Perhaps the king's of convoluted proprietary software that makes you wonder who truly owns the bike, doesn't like being on the receiving end.
 

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WTF!!! You went 2 years with a dodgy rear brake. I can't believe you went that long before getting it sorted yourself.
I wouldnt last 2 hours. As soon as its not how I like it, im making adjustments or bleeding the system.

Yesterday I decided to bleed the rear brake for the first time since buying the bike new. I’ve always had the dealer do it so I could bring it back every time it lost pressure. They replaced the master twice and said it need to be done again. I lost hope with them and never went back. It’s been two years that it has not worked. The lever would go all the way down to the exhaust pipe. I took the caliper off, flipped it over and set it on top of the rotor and bled it the old fashioned way without using my mighty vac. So much air came out it was like foam, kept bleeding more fluid through the system and five minutes later I have a solid pedal again. Only time will tell how long it lasts but it’s the best it’s ever felt.
 

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WTF!!! You went 2 years with a dodgy rear brake. I can't believe you went that long before getting it sorted yourself.
I wouldnt last 2 hours. As soon as its not how I like it, im making adjustments or bleeding the system.
I know. I'll pull over into a parking just to adjust the throttle freeplay. No rear brake, I'd probably cut my trip short.
 

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If you can fry the rear brake from a maladjusted master cylinder freeplay setting....would it not stand to reason that the event is proof of the systems integrity and any recall or theoretical fix is but another hands in the air event as to the nature of the problem...
 
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