2007 Monster S4RS Shutoff While Riding... Charging System? - Page 4 - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-08-2017, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1UglyBastard View Post
I don't feel like reading all 3 pages. Did you test the stator and regulator? It only takes a couple of minutes to do that.
+1 Have you done this yet? From what I have read no. Can you post a pic of your RR connector plugs on the left side of the bike?

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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the stator and regulator rectifier this morning. Although I can't test AC regenerating current from the stator because the bike doesn't start, I did get consistent .4 ohms between the 3 wires going from the stator to the regulator rectifier. Battery is also a solid 13.2 or 13.3 volts.

The stator though does seem like it may be toast. The wires look burnt and I got inconsistency when testing. See the video I made. What does everyone think?

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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 02:50 PM
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I watched your video and can make a few suggestions based on this.
First of all any test on the regulator is irrelevant as there is no proper way to do a test to it without having access to some very sophisticated equipment.
1 - make sure pin 23 is not short to ground - if ok splice pin 26 to 23 near the connector at the panel (make sure to cut pin wire 26 since it is short or open circuited) There is no need to go deep into the harness if doing as i suggested.
2 - Replace or repair the Instrument Panel (before running the engine with all circuits connected - leave the stator yellow wires disconnected and do a continuity test to engine ground - each yellow wire should not have any continuity to engine ground. If ok start engine and test the AC voltage from each yellow stator wire (pin 1 to pin 2) (pin 2 to pin 3) (pin 3 to pin 1)
for a total of three phases - each phase should produce 60 volts AC or more at 5000 rpm - at engine idle it should produce 20 volts approximate.
As for stator continuity it depends on the quality of the DOM meter you are using as this will vary from meter to meter - it should be very close to 0.
These bikes are very hard on stators due to engine heat in traffic - this is something that we have seen since 2010 models.
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-10-2017, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Given what is known currently is that enough to confirm for certain its the gauge cluster? They appear to be expensive and I don't want to purchase a new one needlessly.

To double check continuity I need to run the red lead from the multimeter on pin 23 at the connector to negative ground at the battery terminal on volts DC setting, right? And by splice pin 26 to 23 essentially trimming back the insulator on the two wires and soldering a junction between them then properly securing them?

If I replace the instrument cluster does that have any impact on the keys/immobilizer/ECU or anything needing to be reconfigured or is as simple as mount it and plug the new one in?

Makes sense on your process for testing the stator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Ducati View Post
I watched your video and can make a few suggestions based on this.
First of all any test on the regulator is irrelevant as there is no proper way to do a test to it without having access to some very sophisticated equipment.
1 - make sure pin 23 is not short to ground - if ok splice pin 26 to 23 near the connector at the panel (make sure to cut pin wire 26 since it is short or open circuited) There is no need to go deep into the harness if doing as i suggested.
2 - Replace or repair the Instrument Panel (before running the engine with all circuits connected - leave the stator yellow wires disconnected and do a continuity test to engine ground - each yellow wire should not have any continuity to engine ground. If ok start engine and test the AC voltage from each yellow stator wire (pin 1 to pin 2) (pin 2 to pin 3) (pin 3 to pin 1)
for a total of three phases - each phase should produce 60 volts AC or more at 5000 rpm - at engine idle it should produce 20 volts approximate.
As for stator continuity it depends on the quality of the DOM meter you are using as this will vary from meter to meter - it should be very close to 0.
These bikes are very hard on stators due to engine heat in traffic - this is something that we have seen since 2010 models.
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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 06:53 AM
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To check for continuity you need to set your DOM to the OHM setting - one probe to the 23 pin at the panel connector - the other probe to the engine or chassis ground (make sure the #7 fuse is removed for this test). For this test you should not have continuity.
In any case since you stated earlier that when the panel is disconnected the #7 fuse does not burn - this is proof that wire #23 is not shorted to ground.
Do not forget to remove Wire #26 from the equation by cutting it at the most convenient location - and splice pin 26 to 23

You will need a new instrument panel and to program the panel with the keys you will need (The Red Key) (2 Black Keys).
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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

After pulling off the gauge cluster and opening it up we finally found the issue. The capacitor on the back of the motherboard is totally burnt and we found some connector pins with corrosion. So I think the issue is the regulator rectifier failed and the increased current toasted the gauge cluster. I live in south FL, I ride in hot weather, I sometimes sit in traffic going back and fourth to work, and I ride it hard so imagine it just got too hot and failed.

A friend and I redid some testing and found good continuity between the 23 and 26 pins on the connector going to the gauge cluster. Perhaps I didn't get a good reading with the cheap multimeter I bought or tested the wrong pin accidentally. This means the wire junction that I thought was originally bad is likely fine afterall.

Will test the stator just in case to confirm that's still good, which I hope it is, and will try replacing that capacitor inside the gauge cluster if possible to avoid having to replace the entire instrument cluster and reconfigure the keys/cluster/immobilizer.

Would you could help me with is:

1) What is output of the stator supposed to be? So I can test the 3 wires and confirm that's good or bad
2) What is the process to reconfigure the gauges/keys?
3) Who is the best vendor to order replacement R/R and or gauges? Should I take this opportunity to mount the R/R somewhere with better cooling? Where?



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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 01:34 PM
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I buy my loose electric pieces such as that cap from Fry's.

When I replaced my R/R's I ordered this kit, http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acata...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf and then purchased my R/R from eBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-2017-D...FZg4j3&vxp=mtr Now I didn't order that exact one, I was using that as the cheapest Panigale R/R I could quickly find. Shindengen FHO20AA is the Mosfett unit that most of have used. If you really like eBay you can check around Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha as they used this same unit a lot.

I cut off the end of my bad regulator and used the crimp kit to make a short adapter that allowed me to leave all my wiring as is. I didn't bother with changing around the wiring and going direct to battery as some suggest.

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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Can anyone confirm the below is the correct unit for my 2007 Ducati Monster S4RS?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-Mons...lZ7pJu&vxp=mtr

I also called Rick's Motorsport Electric this morning and they claim to have a R/R for a Ducati Monster S4R, but I am not sure if it's the same for the S4RS. I can't imagine it's different but they asked me to measure the physical dimensions of mine and share it with them. Can anyone provide insight here?

I don't want to mistakenly get the wrong R/R. Unfortunately it also appears as if TPO parts it out of stock with the crankcase breather filter kit/adapter and their R/R relocation bracket. I called their phone number and it goes to another business now it seems.

Last edited by IGoFast1589; 12-18-2017 at 09:42 AM.
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 03:05 PM
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Sounds like your bike did exactly what mine did. I needed to replace the RR and have my gauges fixed by SOS Diagnostics. A Lot of info I'll try to keep this organized the best I can and answer what I know for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IGoFast1589 View Post
1) What is output of the stator supposed to be? So I can test the 3 wires and confirm that's good or bad
2) What is the process to reconfigure the gauges/keys?
3) Who is the best vendor to order replacement R/R and or gauges? Should I take this opportunity to mount the R/R somewhere with better cooling? Where?
1) The guide I posted earlier on electrical testing should have that answer.
2) SOS Diagostics in Oregon is the people that fixed mine. They quoted me, I sent me gauge, ecu, and all keys into them. They then emailed me letting me know the board was bad and needed to be replaced and gave me another quote (cheaper than the first one but still $400) I provided a picture of my mileage prior to the fried incident and they were able to put that on the board too instead of starting from 0.
3) For the RR I bought my FH020AA from ROADSTERCYCLE and hard wired it with a pigtail kit. There are better fitting ones now I hear. Just be sure you get a MOSFET unit. The S4R and S4RS used the same type so the one Ricks is probably suggesting is https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...ulator-10_008H
I don't think you need to mount is a different place if you get a mosfet but if you want the added insurance go for it. Keep in mind the crappy plugs on the RR are usually what make it fry for most people.


Frys does not have that blue varistor on the back but you can buy it here. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...4649-ND/651244
I replaced mine but that did not fix the problem with my gauges. Hopefully you have better luck.


TPO was bought by Bellissimoto. https://www.bellissimoto.com/tpo-parts

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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heath View Post
Sounds like your bike did exactly what mine did. I needed to replace the RR and have my gauges fixed by SOS Diagnostics. A Lot of info I'll try to keep this organized the best I can and answer what I know for sure.


1) The guide I posted earlier on electrical testing should have that answer.
2) SOS Diagostics in Oregon is the people that fixed mine. They quoted me, I sent me gauge, ecu, and all keys into them. They then emailed me letting me know the board was bad and needed to be replaced and gave me another quote (cheaper than the first one but still $400) I provided a picture of my mileage prior to the fried incident and they were able to put that on the board too instead of starting from 0.
3) For the RR I bought my FH020AA from ROADSTERCYCLE and hard wired it with a pigtail kit. There are better fitting ones now I hear. Just be sure you get a MOSFET unit. The S4R and S4RS used the same type so the one Ricks is probably suggesting is https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...ulator-10_008H
I don't think you need to mount is a different place if you get a mosfet but if you want the added insurance go for it. Keep in mind the crappy plugs on the RR are usually what make it fry for most people.


Frys does not have that blue varistor on the back but you can buy it here. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...4649-ND/651244
I replaced mine but that did not fix the problem with my gauges. Hopefully you have better luck.


TPO was bought by Bellissimoto. https://www.bellissimoto.com/tpo-parts
This is great, thanks!

Did you send SOS diagnostics your broken gauge cluster or a new one to be programmed?

We'll see if this blue varistor works. I ordered one, hoping for the best. New gauges cost some $.
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