| Topic Review (Newest First) |
| 06-15-2019 03:17 PM | |
| DarR |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxx
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Really? You guys think tape is going to get into the system?
Use a narrow strip, make sure to not get it down onto the tapered part of the bleed screw. Once the bleeder is tightened down, the tapered part seats against the caliper and seals. No way anything's getting past it. Even mityvac actually recommends using Teflon tape in one of their FAQ's. 2nd one down in link: https://www.skf.com/mityvac/contact-...faq/index.html I'll give it a boo if it acts up again. Right now, pumping the bejesus out of the ABS did the trick for me. |
| 06-13-2019 09:49 PM | |
| ronski |
the high point of the system is, the ABS itself and does trap air. A fix I remember from years ago was to install banjo bleeders to top of ABS unit. I think this was mentioned in a link here. I struggle to think why have anti lock system on a brake which is, well, (censored). hardly works in the first place. you would have to drop a small house on the lever to lock the back wheel. this was from 1100 evo. not sure if it still applies. good luck |
| 06-13-2019 09:03 PM | |
| Dave1200S | Yesterday I decided to bleed the rear brake for the first time since buying the bike new. I’ve always had the dealer do it so I could bring it back every time it lost pressure. They replaced the master twice and said it need to be done again. I lost hope with them and never went back. It’s been two years that it has not worked. The lever would go all the way down to the exhaust pipe. I took the caliper off, flipped it over and set it on top of the rotor and bled it the old fashioned way without using my mighty vac. So much air came out it was like foam, kept bleeding more fluid through the system and five minutes later I have a solid pedal again. Only time will tell how long it lasts but it’s the best it’s ever felt. |
| 06-08-2019 04:57 PM | |
| convict |
trying to bleed my clutch yesterday on my s2r - fail - heres my thought on ducati monsters because they have to hide all the "wiring hoses etc" they create hiccups in the lines so no matter how many times you bleed them like a regular line you get air this I know for sure on a s2r you must, not kinda sorta maybe, but must remove the rear brake its the only way to ensure you get all the air out. infact you have to invert it. and yesterday doing my clutch line after failing to get a strong pump i looked more closely and and found a 'gap , pocket, space, zone' that was half way down the line caused by zipcord to the frame |
| 06-06-2019 07:14 PM | |
| Jaxx |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buhgaboo
View Post
I get what they're after...but it's the flare that seals...not the threads....however ..air can get in through the threads if the fluid is not moving out of the system...air cannot get in if you close the screw while the pedal is in motion...the tape however will dissolve/disintegrate over time and need to be replaced by completely removing the screw thusly negating any benefit seen in the short term...doing it right will be quicker
Use a narrow strip, make sure to not get it down onto the tapered part of the bleed screw. Once the bleeder is tightened down, the tapered part seats against the caliper and seals. No way anything's getting past it. Even mityvac actually recommends using Teflon tape in one of their FAQ's. 2nd one down in link: https://www.skf.com/mityvac/contact-and-support/faq/index.html |
| 06-06-2019 04:40 PM | |
| Buhgaboo | I get what they're after...but it's the flare that seals...not the threads....however ..air can get in through the threads if the fluid is not moving out of the system...air cannot get in if you close the screw while the pedal is in motion...the tape however will dissolve/disintegrate over time and need to be replaced by completely removing the screw thusly negating any benefit seen in the short term...doing it right will be quicker |
| 06-06-2019 03:56 PM | |
| Jaxx |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buhgaboo
View Post
Brake fluid dissolves Teflon tape...never a good mix
as long as you close the bleed screw before the pedal hits bottom you won't let air in  I was skeptical until I tried it on multiple bikes. Referencing this here https://www.gixxer.com/forums/22-mod...-bleeding.html |
| 06-06-2019 03:40 PM | |
| Buhgaboo |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxx
View Post
I've had great results with removing the bleeder screws, wrapping the threads with teflon tape/plumbers tape, putting them back in and bleeding with the tried and true, squeeze brake, open bleeder, close, repeat. This greatly increases the effectiveness of brake bleeds when air can't get past the threads on the bleeder screws. Try it if you don't believe me. You will have the firmest pedal/lever you've ever had without messing around with speed bleed kits etc.
as long as you close the bleed screw before the pedal hits bottom you won't let air in |
| 06-06-2019 02:57 PM | |
| Jaxx | I've had great results with removing the bleeder screws, wrapping the threads with teflon tape/plumbers tape, putting them back in and bleeding with the tried and true, squeeze brake, open bleeder, close, repeat. This greatly increases the effectiveness of brake bleeds when air can't get past the threads on the bleeder screws. Try it if you don't believe me. You will have the firmest pedal/lever you've ever had without messing around with speed bleed kits etc. |
| 05-31-2019 09:50 PM | |
| Buhgaboo |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarR
View Post
Thank you for the awesome suggestion. My rear brake was non existent. I took it out for an hour or two in Urban mode ABS 3 (the highest intervention) and repeatedly hammered it. Pumping the rear brake over and over again at multiple speeds triggering the ABS. Rear brake now works. Very hard to qualify if it's at 100% but it's acceptable.
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