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Thread: My M750 has a new trick! A headshake at high speed turns! Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-08-2019 05:29 AM
MotoGirl Ron, you once posted about the M1 bars from Suburban Machinery. I liked those a lot. This would be as good a time as any to get them since I'm going to be taking it all apart now anyway.

CRM, yes, my ex did a lot for my bike. It will always be appreciated and I hope he's doing fine.

Lee, no deferring. LOL.
02-07-2019 11:14 PM
Originally Posted by caferacermike View Post
That particular machine.............
I defer to the local expert who knows the bike. LOL.
02-07-2019 08:56 PM
ronski Agree, some make the mistake of bolting down new bars, adjusting for position, then trying to get switches and choke, throttle etc. over ends of bars.
The switches, brakes etc. are in halves, so easier to do, but choke for example is circular and must be slide over ends, hence pulling out to ends to slide on. This can dislodge cables or kink them somewhere when pulling to ends.

I always leave bars loose, ie. no riser clamps on yet, get all switchgear and choke , throttles on. Moving the bars side to side to make fitting up easy. Then clamp in place. double checking throttles and choke rotate easily and smoothly.
You must check when positioning that there is no pulling on cables which causes sticking etc. sometimes removing cable ties from frame and re-routing is needed. As I said before, the outer cable may have pulled out at the adjusters.

Then of course, as Mike said, it may have got damaged in crash.

I have Triumph 'M' bars on my monster and they fit and work well.

good luck,

02-07-2019 07:37 PM
caferacermike That particular machine needs a set of proper Monster bent bars, the aftermarket bars are causing the switch gear and choke to rub. It wasn't easy to install the choke. It was a make do as it was like the 3rd set of bars on a bike in a few weeks. The switch gear must be replaced as the horn button is broken. Might be possible to take the entire gear apart and try to get the button released and back in place but for $40-50 you are better off with new switch gear on that side. The button got smashed when it pushed in the tank.

Your ex had a new set of switches, left and right, he ordered on eBay for that bike but has put them in the bin. It's my understanding that your ex did quite a bit of work keeping that bike running until the last accident had you park it for almost a year showing no further interest in the bike. At least that's what he had told me. I'm glad you have decided to ride it rather than sell as you had mentioned.
02-07-2019 05:18 PM
Monster4Lee If you buy a brand new bike the value falls fast just by depreciation.
02-07-2019 03:36 AM
Originally Posted by ronski View Post
I'm with Lee on the older bikes, better looking and within my capabilities to fix. Would love a new bike but cannot afford one at my age. Eventually all things wear out, so a 20 year old bike is an ongoing duty of love and care.
Wow. Thanks for pitching in again on these other issues. I appreciate it a lot. I figured it was out of my hands at this point but I’d love to sort this out in my own garage. The choke is hard to turn. It used to slide up and down with no effort. Since the new bars, it’s rather stiff. It still operates, just with less cooperation. I have to really push to get it to move. My ex was the one who replaced the bars so I’ll be coming at this new. I’ll check the points you mentioned and see if I can sort it out. When it comes to the gauges and electrics I can get intimidated because it’s not what I know, but I’m definitely determined to find out.

I completely get what you're saying about the upkeep on an older bike being a duty of love and care. The idea of a new bike turns me off if I'm honest. That friend of mine has a new Monster and keeps saying mine is on the edge of being a money pit. But, not if I can fix it! Thus my determination to learn how. Sure, it would more reliable. I’ve been told about the new technology but I have no idea what I’m missing. Plus, I don’t like the new Monster design as much as the older one.

I find the older I get, the less sophisticated I like things in general. I started out driving in a ’71 VW Beetle and loved the hell out of that car, for many reasons, one of which was I could fix most issues armed with a little common sense and some basic tools. And it was always breaking down. My father (who desperately wanted a son but had three daughters) loved how interested I was in mechanics and that I didn’t mind getting my hands dirty so he taught me to work on it. My first lesson was how to replace a float needle valve and a fuel line. We’d go to a local junkyard, pay $5 to the owner to poke around looking for parts. We found the valve in a wrecked Beetle and even the right sized fuel line in decent condition in an old BMW and got it running. I find there’s not a lot in life more gratifying than fixing something yourself.

If I bought a new bike, I wouldn’t be able to fix it. I wouldn’t attempt to customize it either. I’d think about the resale value, therefore already thinking it belonged to someone else, if that makes sense. Every time I start thinking about selling my Monster, I get angsty. I’ve already learned so much on this forum through this bike. Eventually I want to be able to do my own build. Bring some beautiful machine back from a rusty death. That’s on my bucket list anyway.
02-06-2019 10:40 PM
ronski I'm with Lee on the older bikes, better looking and within my capabilities to fix. Would love a new bike but cannot afford one at my age. Eventually all things wear out, so a 20 year old bike is an ongoing duty of love and care.

So to next issues, changed the handle bars and now no horn, you may have to check either the horn itself or the switch unit on handlebars. sometimes new position of bars puts a strain on wiring, sometimes putting back on can dislodge the switch or even break a connection inside.

Same deal with the choke, you say it's harder to operate, how exactly? is it getting tighter to move or won't go to full on?
When changing bars, you may have pulled the outer cable out of it's retainer/holders. easy to do when getting it onto new bars, check both ends, make sure there is free play.
Check any cable ties that may prevent it moving to new location on bars hence pulling on cable.

In other words, it may be partially on. Could explain the strange running and hesitation etc. staying too rich.

speedo, some had issues with the actual speedo failing, but check the cable first. It's a bit fiddly, but disconnect from gauge, tape the end to something so you can see the cable inside, then sit on bike and move it forward, with engine or just push.
The cable should rotate. If not rotating, then think; 'wheel balance', the guy would have removed front wheel to balance, the speedo drive is on front wheel. Possible he did not fit the locator pins in properly and it's not turning.
easy fix unless the pins got damaged.

Amazing sometimes how fixing/changing one thing. can lead to other problems.

Have fun,

02-06-2019 08:48 PM
The front wheel was out of balance.
One thing sorted, cool. Even if you decide to sell, it would be good to fix the other things first. Then you have a nice looking bike that needs nothing (right away). All bikes need love now and then, older ones more so. Yes, they have come a long way in the last 10 or 20 years, but a lot of the old bikes were cool and not too complex. My 14 Monster is cool, but really complex. I do appreciate the ABS and DTC safety items.

To simplify, a quick shifter is a button you hit to shift gears. No messing with clutch or throttle, the computer matches revs, cuts spark, makes the shift, peasy. Also complex electronics.

Ride safe.
02-06-2019 05:00 PM
MotoGirl I just got my bike back from a local guy who did an alignment and that fixed that! He checked the forks and tires, which he said are still on the new side. I had him checked the head bearings too. All good. The front wheel was out of balance.

The past couple weeks there are other issues that have been cropping up so I'm going to take it back to him soon. Since the handlebars were replaced, the horn hasn't worked and the choke is hard to operate. I went to get it inspected in December having forgotten that little detail about the horn but the guy passed it. I only just remembered it hasn't worked. Now the speedometer is not working either. Also there are dead zones in the power, it's fine up to about 3000rpms and then starts to hesitate at mid-range. It comes back again and hits another wall at high range. All sorts of little issues, but it's generally running fine. Now I've got a friend of mine saying I should just sell it and go buy an new 821 "with a quick shifter and those Termis you like and never look back." That it's time to graduate from my first street bike. Lol! So now I'm considering that. I'm more drawn to vintage bikes but for now I've offloaded the idea of a project Ducati. I've already picked up and sold two potentially awesome non-running bikes but I need to start smaller, like a General Five Star maybe.

What's a quick shifter anyway? I rarely have to use the clutch to shift as it is now so how much quicker does it get before it's automatic? The technology on the new bikes is unreal compared to my 17 year beast.

Thank you all for helping we work through this issue. You guys are the best. I've learned a lot through this one.
01-31-2019 01:55 AM
ronski In this picture I have arrowed in red. Is this an alloy plate maybe with numbers on?
I have polished my rims, don't remember a plate on the rim etc.

Or, is it where wheel weights used to be? sometimes slack mechanics don't remove the old adhesive when replacing weights to balancing new tire, so may be ok.

Or, could the original weights be missing? out of balance front wheel can feel like a wobble at speed.

Hard to see from picture, but agree, tires look ok.

The local tire place here rebalances for very little ( $5.00) if you remove wheel and take in with disks attached.
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