I am working on a 1999 Monster 900S, that I recently adopted. When the PO had it, the bike had sat not running for the past 2 years. After getting the bike, my goals were to get it running, then do a bit of shakedown and get it running WELL, then go through it and update and upgrade/replace parts as necessary front to back (mechanical first), then last have it repainted.
My first steps were to get things running. First step, try to turn it over. Cranked, but would not start. Sounded like no fuel. I pulled the tank, drained it, added a quick disconnect between the tank and fuel filter, replaced the fuel filter with the Napa replacement, replaced the fuel lines under the seat, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned and oiled the K&N air filter (square one in original airbox), wiped out the airbox, removed the carbs, sprayed them out with carb cleaner, oiled the choke cable, replaced the nearly dead lithium battery the PO had in it with a basic lead-acid OEM replacement, and then put it all back together with fresh gas. A little starting fluid and she fired right up!
Things were getting better, but there was still work to be done. The bike would not idle without choke, and seemed to be too lean (backfires and smell), even though the old plugs seemed carbon fouled (too rich). So, the carbs definitely need to be rebuilt, and I have a seal rebuild kit and the PO had given me a rejet kit that he had not installed, so that is all ready to go. I also got a rebuild kit for the fuel vacuum pump and will do that before I pull the carbs out.
Looking over the brakes showed that the fluid was nasty, and the rear caliper was acting as the pad. So, back pads replaced, and new brake fluid. No problem, everything bled out fine and was good to go.
Next up was the clutch. The fluid was black and looked like it had never been replaced. The clutch was occasionally seeming to barely disengage when first starting up, or sitting cold, but the PO had just replaced the entire basket before the bike sat. I went and flushed new fluid through, cleaned and greased the pushrod, reinstalled everything, and could not get it bled. (new crush washers each time.) I tried the manual way of bleeding it, the c-clamp on the slave way, and even bought a vacuum bleeder to try that. Same problem each time, it seemed like the bleed screw was leaking air even when closed. So, I bought a new banjo bolt and bleed screw for the clutch slave. Same problem. So I bought another set...same problem. So then I thought maybe the slave was bad and got a new Oberon slave (rebuild kit for original was $50, so I just got a new one). I installed it with the early model extension piece they include for older bikes....bleed...same problem. It seems like it is trying to disengage (get out of gear), but doesn't quite get far enough.....like it is not bled all the way.
This is the setup:
, Clutch Pressure Plate
, Springs and Caps
Next step would be to replace the clutch line, but it is SS braided, so I don't think that is where the air is coming from. I have read about people needing to remove clutch plates to get them working, but that seems like a last course of action since it was working before. Another thing I have read is people lying the bike down to get the bleed valve higher than the reservoir to get the air dislodged and floating to the bleed valve, but that seems extreme and like it should not be necessary.
Any tips or ideas for me on getting this clutch bled? Just get a new line and reservoir and try that?