So you are telling me that the basket isnt so bad?
Not really. I mean, it isn't great but mine was a lot worse when I changed it and it was still shifting ok prior to that. If you want, you could pull it out and use a metal file to smooth the inside edges of the slots.
If I change the clutch plate and the springs, will the noise from the clutch be reduce?
It should. It won't go away completely due to the nature of it being a dry clutch but it should be noticeably reduced. Mine used to be loud enough that the sound of the plates banging around was louder than my engine and exhaust as idle.
Another note, most websites that sell new clutch plates sell them as a kit with the steel discs that sit between the plates. You don't necessarily have to change the steel discs though. I pulled mine out and sanded them just enough to restore the surface to bare metal and then cleaned them with brake cleaner. However, you will want to lay them on a completely flat surface, like a glass table, to ensure they are still straight. They can warp a little bit and any warped discs should be replaced. I only had to replace two of mine. I originally did not check to see if any were warped and had issues with the clutch not fully disengaging due to a combination of the plates being warped and the new clutch discs having thicker friction material than the old worn out ones.
Will I need the special tool (88713.2133) to remove the spring and the pressure plate?
The workshop manual use it, but not the tutorials that I find online.
For just the springs and plates, no.
If you want to remove the clutch basket you will need a tool to hold the clutch basket in place to break the bolts loose. I used this one and it worked great: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-Clut...YAAMXQBuNQ6lCZ
One last question, is the bearing hard to remove and reinstall?
Thanks for your help!
Not really. I laid mine face up on two pieces of wood 2x6's leaving a gap under the bearing. Then I put a socket over the face of the bearing and hammered it out. I put the new bearing in a freezer overnight to shrink it as much as possible and then used the same socket and hammer to press it into the pressure plate. It's a crude method but it worked...just gotta be careful not to damage the bearing.
Couple more notes:
Desmotimes sells a spyder spring retainer that replaces that OEM spring cups. It helps improve the lever feel and isn't too expensive.
The Oberson slave cylinder is also a very nice upgrade. It makes the lever pull a lot lighter and smoother.
Try and find the factory service manual for your model. The section on changing the clutch will specify the correct thickness for the steel plates and clutch discs as well as provide a range for what their "stack height" should be which is the total thickness of the steel plates and clutch discs when they're all stacked together. It's a good idea to double-check that before you reassemble everything. I recommend using a digital caliper to measure them.