Former S2R1000 owner looking at an S4R
I am hoping to get some advice on this. I was looking to replace my former '04 S2R1000 with another (it was stolen), but I can't find anything like it. So... I found an '06 S4R. I realizing it is a much different bike, but I am thinking it might be too much bike for me. I was comfortable on the S2R, and liked that it was light (but not too light like my M900), and I liked that it was a V2. I am a bit afraid that the upkeep is going to be a lot more expensive, too.
8,000 mi on the odometer
Power Commander 5
Rizomo Handlebars and Levers
Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder
Rizomo Mirrors (will likely replace these with the care racer style)
Open clutch cover
Do you still have the S2R?
Then keep it :)
And it is not V2 but L2
I was told the s2r was a V2 - thanks.
I m sure the OP meant 2V not V2.
Now addressing the OPís question the S4R is a 4V yes more expensive to service and it would be too much bike for me, I have an 1100 evo and itís scary for me!
Go for a test ride and see how you feel
S4R great bike.
Drives you crazy :)
Compare to a 2 valve more expensive in maintenance
But driving a Ducati is a passion :) else buy a Honda :):):)
As an S4RS owner and a Sport Classic owner I hope I can shed some thoughts on this.
The 1100DS motor is a fantastic machine, the pinnacle of the air cooled engines. It's a little more oomph than the 1000 but not much. Now the S4R will have the 996, not the 998 my S4RS has. These are not 100% apples to apples comparisons to the S2R or S4R but not everyone will have damn near the exact bikes you are comparing in their garage, which I do.
I enjoy the riding experience more on the Sport Classic than the S4RS. The 1100DS makes very nice power all the way across the board. There is a kick in the pants around 4000 rpm as to be expected. With some clutch slip it will easily tip the front wheel to the sky. The S4RS is completely different. It's all torque all the time. It wants to pull the front wheel all the way over just because. No clutch needed, no suspension bounce, just twist the throttle. The rear tire breaks loose for any reason whether you ask for it to or not. If you can master sliding the rear end out while roasting the back tire through a corner, oh you are in for a treat. There is a reason mine is set up for monoposta only. I don't want to involve anyone in the madness.
If you are commuting or just riding around and want another machine, the S2R is a better bike. If you are looking to add some madness and mayhem the S4R kicks it up a notch. Not quite as big a notch as the S4RS but it will be a different bike than your S2R. It will also handle much more different as there is a weight forward bias with the radiator and larger engine parts.
If you are looking for an interesting air cooled replacement and just want to try a different machine, maybe check out the GT1000.
I bit the bullet and went with the S4R. Turns out that this is what happened to the previous owner and he dropped it at about 20mph. (He thought he "hit a patch of oil or something.") That was enough for him to sell it. I hit a patch of gravel while cornering on a windy road one time on my S2R and did about 5 fishtails - that had me pulling over so I could stop shaking. I am rather proud that I handled that craziness, but I'm not looking for any more of that shit.
I find the S4R handles a lot like the S2R1000, but it actually feels a bit more powerful at higher speeds (this I like) and more stable, which is one of the joys I experienced in moving from my M900 to the S2R1000. Overall, I'm pretty happy. Cosmetically, it has issues, which is just fine with me since the S2R got stolen.... Too pretty is not always a good thing.
Yes - the torque thing all the time on this is pretty awesome, and the open clutch is also one of my favorite things abut these bikes. Shifting is SO nice on this S4R - even better than the S2Rm and the clutch is essentially gone, so I know what you mean regarding that.
With that said, the S4R is not nearly as intimidating as was moving from the M900 to the S2R1000, in my opinion.
8,000 mi on the odometer - ask when was the last valve check/adjustment done. same for belt replacement. Big servioce should be done at 6,000 miles.
Power Commander 5 - No PC5 for S4R. It's PC3. Ask who did the dyno and custom map and ask for copy of the map if the seller has it.
K&N Filter - pretty standard with custom map, and is washable so you won't need to buy a new filter ever.
Arrow Exhaust - good quality exhaust. If it's the titanium one then it has baffles. If it's the CF one it's the loud race exhaust and you can only install baffles if you change the end caps. If you neeed info PM me I done it and have the part #'s for the end caps and baffles. Also if the bike still has the OEM cow udder then the Arrows are just slip ons. If there is no ugly udder it's the full system.
Steering Dampener - Steering damper is a good insurance against tank slappers. However it's best to have suspension setup for your weight then tank slappers will be mostly eliminated. The S4R has fully adjustable forks and shock but it was built for tiny Italians.
Rizomo Handlebars and Levers - Nice quality bling (Rizoma is Italian and it's expensive)
Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder - Oberon slave is one of the best quality slave cylinders. It makes your clutch a lot softer.
Rizomo Mirrors (will likely replace these with the care racer style) - again good quality so if you are going to sell them then make some research on the price. You may get more $ for them.
Open clutch cover - Makes the clutch sing that Ducati song
Looks like who ever modified the bike knew what they were doing. However make sure to find out when the valves were done and when the belts were changed (usually done at the same time). Timewise and mileagewise. Valve adjustment should be done every 6K miles. Belts should be replaced every 2 years but you can go twice as long.
If the valves and belts were done at 6K miles last year you're OK.
If they were done at 6K five years ago the valves are OK but the belts should be changed.
If neither was done at 6K you should negotiate the price down.
If you will have to pay the dealer for the service you may look at $800 - $1000 price. Private shops are usually cheaper and you will probably be out of $500 - $600. If you are little bit skilled the belts change is pretty simple and there are tons of videos on YouTube that show it step by step. Valves are harder on 4V engine and probably need to be done by mechanic if you did not do any wrenching before.
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