Cost to repaint a Monster S2R? - Page 2 - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 07:45 PM
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This is a question I have too. How much would it cost me to get my tank caswell sealed then painted, front fender and rear seat cowl repainted. I have a 2006 S2R

S2R800, 996sps (sold), 1098R. RIP Kentucky kid
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 07:49 PM
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i color changed my old monster tank, seat cowl, side panels, and front fender in dark metallic green for $120 in materials and another $20 on two Diavel tank emblems

Nice decals...from ebay?

S2R800, 996sps (sold), 1098R. RIP Kentucky kid
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 08:11 PM
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i color changed my old monster tank, seat cowl, side panels, and front fender in dark metallic green for $120 in materials and another $20 on two Diavel tank emblems

Nice decals...from ebay?
actually, yes, they were from eBay. However, they aren't "decals" they were OEM 3D Ducati emblems, in OEM Ducati packaging. That being said, i was mistaken and the units i bought/used were intended for a Multistrada, not a Diavel. i just bought two more actually...

(new ones haven't arrived yet, so pic is from interwebs when googling 43513501A)
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cmross13 View Post
actually, yes, they were from eBay. However, they aren't "decals" they were OEM 3D Ducati emblems, in OEM Ducati packaging. That being said, i was mistaken and the units i bought/used were intended for a Multistrada, not a Diavel. i just bought two more actually...

(new ones haven't arrived yet, so pic is from interwebs when googling 43513501A)

Nice. so these are raised? whats the ebay item number so I can find them? Thanks

S2R800, 996sps (sold), 1098R. RIP Kentucky kid
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 12:08 AM
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Wow $500 to paint a tank, fender, cowls, wheels, and a frame? Whoever said that, jump all over it.

Locally you'd be looking at around $400-500 to have a set of wheels CORRECTLY powder coated. I mean I'll do it for $200 if you really want me to, but a quality shop doing color powder is going to charge for it. And wheels? Yeah you don't want any old asshat screwing that up. The thing is they are round and they are round for a reason. Heat, metal, things that move for $700 Alex. So the guys I used locally will first check your wheels for run out on a wheel stand and then bake your wheels to remove any old paint or powder coating from the factory. Then they cool them and check the run out to see if they shifted any. Then they prep the wheels with sanding or polishing, de-smut the wheels, plug all holes or use their special tape to cover any bearing areas, de-smut the wheels again and then spray and bake. They then check the run out again. If the wheels pulled to one side or another they carefully use a press to bump them back.

So if that's not worth $400 to freshly powder coat 2 wheels black or $500 for color, then I guess I don't know what is. Now there is a kid on Craigslist locally that would love to "powercoat" anything you don't mind him ruining for a couple hundred bucks.


Now for paint? Locally I get charged around $1,000 for tank, fender, tail section, for a Monster. But that's high quality work with great paint and prep. You can add $500 for a trellis frame because they are a nightmare to prep and remove the old paint. My powder coat guys are generally better suited for a frame as they will bake off the old paint and a little Scotch brite pad work will have it ready for a new color.

$2,000 is what I would budget for a nice quality paint job for everything. I did kind of a quickie special about 10 years ago on a M750 and got out of that with some friend pricing on a tank, fairing and fender in school bus yellow with a simple black off set stripe for $400 total as the harvest gold was a stock color they used locally for a construction companies trucks and the body shop gave it to new hire to test his skills. It was fine for me as the bike was being given to a charity to raffle away. The next year I did a M600 frame, rear shock spring, and 2 wheels powder coated for $900. The tank, seat cowl, fender, fairing, and one of those fun under engine scoops were painted for around $600 but they did a horrible job which I sanded away and just did it myself.

Not to mention the 4 hours I spent stripping the M600 (thankfully I have a full shop and lift) and the 12 hours I spent putting it back together the way I wanted it. There is a hidden cost here as well that isn't being mentioned. You'll end up putting new tires on the wheels, so that's like $400. New bearings, new hub cushions, new sprocket, new chain, new front sprocket, handlebar grips, etc that will run you another $600-1,000. Probably do some maintenance like shim the valves while the engine is out, new belts, oil change, spark plugs, maybe a new battery.

CMROSS if you say otherwise I'll fight you. I've seen your build threads and countless exhaust swaps. LOL.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 10:38 AM
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Nice. so these are raised? whats the ebay item number so I can find them? Thanks
i dont know if you can find them on ebay anymore as that was 3 years ago and some guy just happened to have three of them for $10/ea so i bought all three. you can still buy them new from Ducati for around $15/ea, thats why i provided the part number in my post above, 43513501A

Quote:
Originally Posted by caferacermike View Post
Wow $500 to paint a tank, fender, cowls, wheels, and a frame? Whoever said that, jump all over it.

Locally you'd be looking at around $400-500 to have a set of wheels CORRECTLY powder coated. I mean I'll do it for $200 if you really want me to, but a quality shop doing color powder is going to charge for it. And wheels? Yeah you don't want any old asshat screwing that up. The thing is they are round and they are round for a reason. Heat, metal, things that move for $700 Alex. So the guys I used locally will first check your wheels for run out on a wheel stand and then bake your wheels to remove any old paint or powder coating from the factory. Then they cool them and check the run out to see if they shifted any. Then they prep the wheels with sanding or polishing, de-smut the wheels, plug all holes or use their special tape to cover any bearing areas, de-smut the wheels again and then spray and bake. They then check the run out again. If the wheels pulled to one side or another they carefully use a press to bump them back.

So if that's not worth $400 to freshly powder coat 2 wheels black or $500 for color, then I guess I don't know what is. Now there is a kid on Craigslist locally that would love to "powercoat" anything you don't mind him ruining for a couple hundred bucks.


Now for paint? Locally I get charged around $1,000 for tank, fender, tail section, for a Monster. But that's high quality work with great paint and prep. You can add $500 for a trellis frame because they are a nightmare to prep and remove the old paint. My powder coat guys are generally better suited for a frame as they will bake off the old paint and a little Scotch brite pad work will have it ready for a new color.

$2,000 is what I would budget for a nice quality paint job for everything. I did kind of a quickie special about 10 years ago on a M750 and got out of that with some friend pricing on a tank, fairing and fender in school bus yellow with a simple black off set stripe for $400 total as the harvest gold was a stock color they used locally for a construction companies trucks and the body shop gave it to new hire to test his skills. It was fine for me as the bike was being given to a charity to raffle away. The next year I did a M600 frame, rear shock spring, and 2 wheels powder coated for $900. The tank, seat cowl, fender, fairing, and one of those fun under engine scoops were painted for around $600 but they did a horrible job which I sanded away and just did it myself.

Not to mention the 4 hours I spent stripping the M600 (thankfully I have a full shop and lift) and the 12 hours I spent putting it back together the way I wanted it. There is a hidden cost here as well that isn't being mentioned. You'll end up putting new tires on the wheels, so that's like $400. New bearings, new hub cushions, new sprocket, new chain, new front sprocket, handlebar grips, etc that will run you another $600-1,000. Probably do some maintenance like shim the valves while the engine is out, new belts, oil change, spark plugs, maybe a new battery.

CMROSS if you say otherwise I'll fight you. I've seen your build threads and countless exhaust swaps. LOL.
you bring up a lot of good points, and some that i MUST disagree with. for starters, powdercoating wheels is a practice that has a lot of controversy on the interwebs, due the annealing or weakening of aluminum at a relatively low temperature. that being said, powdercoaters typically bake at between 350-400 degrees fahrenheit, and i know for a fact that car wheels hubs get MUCH hotter than that under heavy braking, thousands of times during their life cycle, so i disregard all the nay-sayers and i powdercoat. the shop i use has been in business for 30+ years specializing in automotive powdecoating. they have done several sets of car wheels and bike frames for me, and no matter what i send him its always $50-100 per color depending on the size of the items being media blasted and coated. i sent a custom made bicycle frame in for white and some small odds and ends for metallic red, cost me $150. Kawasaki dirt bike frame in flouro green and swingarm in purple, cost me $150. 4 Honda wheels, 4 Enkie wheels, 4 BBS wheels, 4 Fuchs alloys, always $100 per set. the only time i ever paid more was for a whole patio set of wrought iron furniture that cost me $200(i even had to rent a box truck to get it there). for this reason, i expect to pay $150 when i drop off my M900 frame and S4 wheels for bronze and small odds and ends for bright silver. this is how i based my pricing structure in my initial post. perhaps im getting a "deal" or these services are just cheaper in my area.

the next topic is the cost for paint services. while i dont doubt for a second that a $2,000 paint job would look much better than a $200 job, the problem i have with it is that there is no point in paying that kind of difference for a show-car finish, unless you truly want an inky black. any metallics or pearls, and a lot of solid colors will allow for a certain degree of neglect(for lack of a better word) and you dont have to spend days filling and sanding every little "wave" in the tank from the manufacturer, they will disappear in the paint(except black lol). also, these things are ridden in all sorts of conditions, and knicks/chips are expected. from past experience, a competent body shop should be able to do all your colored parts in about 6-8 hours time. 7 hours at $75/hr is $525. if you are using your standard automotive finishes(Dupont, PPG, Martin Senour, etc), i would expect to be somewhere in the $500-600 range. if you want to use House of Kolor, Glasurit, Sikkens, etc you will pay a premium. again, this is all based on a one-color job. now, with all that in mind, i DID pay a shop $300 just to paint a belly pan for my S4RS, but that was two color(OEM PPG pearl white over some custom blend of red from Chromavision), but being a hand-made part there was a lot more prep than is required from a molded or stamped part.

finally is the point you really hit home on with me, which i neglected to consider in my previous posts, and that is total costs involved to actually do the above mentioned work. powderocating wheels requires removal of the tires, bearings and cush drives. so to dismount and remount my good tires is about $100, replacing cush drives, bearings and seals is another $150. so now my $100 powdercoat job just cost me a realistic $350, add another $250 if i needed tires. removing the engine from the frame DOES warrant changing the timing belts, shimming the valves, and etc, so add another $120 to THAT job lol. i like doing things all at once and getting them out of the way, so since the engine is out may as well plop in some new pistons & rings, bearings and seals. also, since the bike is apart lets send the suspension bits to FCR for a rebuild/revalve. no im not going to put all this time and effort into disassembly without reassembling with all new stainless hardware, so theres THAT cost to factor in. you made a really great point there, and for that i commend you, sir
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 03:08 PM
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ok thanks CMROSS

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