when to change the chain? - Page 3 - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-12-2004, 11:52 AM
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Re: when to change the chain?

Hi Kevin,

The short answer is that steel is more durable.

To go on about it... plain aluminum sprockets are simply not acceptable. When I turned wrenches for a living, I have installed them at customers' insistence and have had them visibly worn in a month's time. When the aluminum sprocket wears, I have seen that often, the chain will prematurely wear as well. I can't explain or theorize this; it is my observation from real life customers.

Hard anodized aluminum sprockets are like hard chocolate on a soft serve ice cream cone. A hard outer coating on the sprocket delays the above.

Steel sprockets are not as critical about sprocket alignment. Some people confuse "Wheel alignment" with sprocket alignment. I personally don't care where the wheel is pointed... I want the rear sprocket to point directly up the chain. I talk about my chain alignment on my wheel change page: http://www.ducatitech.com/info/wheelchange.html

Steel sprockets shrug off neglect far better than aluminum sprockets, easily by factor of 10. When I change "chain and sprockets" on our bikes, typically between 12,000 and 15,000 miles, I will note that the sprockets show no noticeable wear. I do not know if it is acceptable to use old sprockets with new chain, so spending my own money, I put on new sprockets with new chains on our road bikes.

I consider aluminum sprockets appropriate for racing use, where the driveline is serviced at a frequency of 50~100 miles and parts are replaced without hestation or regard to price.

As for the regina chain, note that it has solid posts on the "rivet" link which requires a quad stake tool to properly peen over, while DiD has hollow ends on the posts, which is more conventional.

I am somewhat over the top when it comes to conservatism towards reliability as I'm a Ducati rider that isn't afraid to set off on a 400 mile day without hesitation or worry.

Wow, thanks for all that info. Steel it is! I hope its not too late. . .


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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-12-2004, 05:22 PM
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Re: when to change the chain?

Fretting corrosion is one of the reasons I stopped using O ring chains a few years ago. At least when you lube a non O ring chain you stand a chance doing some good. Course. not as good as the old days when you removed the chain, cleaned thoroughly in kerosene, tossed into your pot of melted grease on the stove then hung it up to drip dry and reassembled
I also try to pull the chain off the back of the sprocket, when it's loose enough to expose 1/2 the tooth it's time to replace.
post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-20-2009, 04:32 AM
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Have a 2005 S2R at 12k. The previous owner supposedly changed the chain. Noticed some scratches/marks about 1mm deep on the top of the single sided swing arm from the chain. Is this serious?

I don't know the tension just yet, as I can't sit and measure the slack at the same time. However on the pit bull rear stand the slack is about 60mm, and on the kick stand it's about 40-45mm. Is this dangerous, as I have a ride Sunday?

Also, anyone know the size of the spanner. Perhaps I can find one locally rather than ebay.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-20-2009, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by El_hombre View Post
You can check the length - somewhere in the shop manual for my bike ('02 M620ie) it says: stretch the chain and measure the length of 16 links: it should be below 256 mm...
The shop manual for my S4R has the same instruction. "16 links should be within 256.5 mm", OR in the presence of sharpened sprocket teeth indications.

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 05:36 PM
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no more greasy short lasting chains, just put a belt drive on my 2012 bonneville from scootworks.com didn't see any duc's listed but enough interest they may make one, newest technology carbon fiber-kevlar almost same width said to last 50-100 thousand miles well worth $579 to me
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-16-2012, 07:13 AM
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Opinion on chain tools

My 1000sie is pushing 15,000 and beginning to do track more than street.
Sprockets are starting to fish hook and I think it is better to replace sprockets and chain at the same time.
I am looking for opinions on chain tools. I hope to spend those bigger bucks only once.

Update: Sprung for the Motion Pro Jumbo chain tool. Now, I want to keep my 15 tooth front and add some teeth to the rear. Thinking of moving from the stock 39T to a 44T. Why? Because the track I play at is a "technical" track so I am told. A little over a mile with 17 turns. I seldom get to third gear and the scoot lugs in the slower corners even in first.
Question. What would the minimal chain length I could get away with as there may come a time when I want to put the stock rear sprocket on just to cruise a little. Ok, maybe that is a dumb idea. Perhaps I will just finally use fifth or sixth gear!

Last edited by MajorDucat; 12-28-2012 at 09:42 AM. Reason: Update to request for opinions
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 07:03 PM
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Replacing both Chain and Sproket

Hey, Just thought I would tack on an additional question here for some expert input. I have had my Monster 1100 Evo for a year and a half with 9k on it.
I purchased a 14T front sprocket and am going to get the dealership to change it. The chain is in good shape, but I know you should change chain and sprocket as a set, but is it completely necessary on a chain with only 9000km on it? Trying to avoid the 200bucks for a new chain and install.
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