S4 full reving on start - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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S4 full reving on start

Hi,

Just re-assembled my 2001 S4 after a full teardown (engine stayed pretty much whole. Just timing and a couple other maintenance items). Anyway, filled her up and turned her over. Took a bit to start and when she did, the engine was like on full throttle, except throttle was fully closed. Fast iddle also not engaged. Let it run about 30 seconds to see if revs would drop to iddle but stayed the same. Had to stop because headers were glowing red... Any ideas? Cheers.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 07:14 PM
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Ummmmm, disconnect cables at throttle body and try again?

Check for something holdings TB's open?

What are the results?

2001 S4 Senna
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. Yeah that was it alright. I feel like such an idiot... I had not screwed in the throttle cable far enough and it was holding the TBs open just a smidge... 😣

Another question if I may: had the front brakes MC and calipers completely torn down. Reassembled and bled air at all 3 nipples. No air bubbles but they feel softish. Can pull lever past halfway mark. Is that normal for these brembos? Special sequence to bleed front brakes? Cheers.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 10:00 PM
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keep bleeding, you still have air in system. Start at MC, work way down to calipers.

Helps if you have a mite vac, but not necessary.

You did put back all the crush washers, right?

2001 S4 Senna
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Will do. Back is firm, front probably still has a bit of air. Will bleed again. Hate brake fluid...

Yes all crushers back on but good thinking... Cheers
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 07:34 AM
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I've found that every now and then with motorcycle brakes that if they work enough for a ride, that a quick trip around the block can shake the bubbles to the top and out of the master causing the feel to firm up. You have to replace the fluid that went down as the air came up. On some bikes it is easier to bleed the brakes with the calipers held higher than the master cylinder.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 10:33 PM
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Tie brake lever back to bar and leave overnight. Often works wonders

Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjkennedy51 View Post
Tie brake lever back to bar and leave overnight. Often works wonders
+1 to this, also it sometimes helps to tap the various parts of the system now and again.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Huuummm, re-bled all components. No bubbles and still mushier than I am used to. Will try again and see.


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