loosen the lower triple clamp bolts on the forks and retighten them - I've slid mine a few times, often the forks and triples will get "tweaked" (or maybe "torqued" is a better way to put it), you loosen the lower triple clamp bolts and they "pop" back into alignment, retorque to spec (what is it, 12 or 13 ft-lbs I think) and go! DON'T overtorque them, the material on the triple is thin and will easily break from tension, even aftermarket 7075 alloy.
If you think the front hit hard and you're worried about the forks actually being tweaked or bent, and binding, you can support the front end (I use a jackstand under the horizontal cylender, just lift the bike onto it by hand, but that's kindof crude and barberic, a front triple stand or engine stand would be friendlier), unscrew the fork caps to remove the spring tension (with the handlebars out of the way), and run the forks through their full travel, see if they are sticking or binding anywhere.
Outside of that, check the alignment, front to rear. I use a string, back tire is wider than front, so with the bars straight, at the trailing edge of the front tire there should be the same air gap from the tire edge to string on both sides. There's more precise methods, if you have a few simple tools and some imagination, but the string method is easy and "good enough for government".
That is, assuming you check the welds carefully first, especially the steering neck, and those on the rear swingarm, but try to check all of them thoroughly. As outlined by Caferacermike, check thoroughly, cracked welds tend to be pretty obvious.
If the front and rear are true, nothing is cracked, nothing is binding, and the engine runs, go ride!!!