About to start post-wreck rehab for my M620. What have I overlooked? - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum

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Old 11-26-2012, 09:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default About to start post-wreck rehab for my M620. What have I overlooked?

So I recently got a bit too friendly with a van while riding my 2006 M620. No collision insurance. I probably have enough money set aside to just let the dealer take care of it, but I finally have a garage and an expanding collection of tools so I would prefer to do as much of the repair work as I can. I would like to get as much of this done as possible before January as once the new year rolls around my free time will disappear for a while. With that in mind I need to ensure that I can gather all the parts and any specialty tools I will need as quickly as possible.

This is where I need your help. I have an idea of what needs to be done, but I would like some of you salty veterans to point out what I have missed. Also, some of the necessary tasks could be beyond my current skill level, so I would also appreciate a heads up of any mistakes that could cause extensive damage to the bike. As a frame of reference I have been taking care of all of the routine maintenance (oil change, replacing filters and brake pads, chain tensioning, spark plug replacement etc), but I have not had a garage until recently so I let the shop take care of the more daunting tasks of timing belt and valve adjustments.

Now to the good stuff! Here is a link to the pictures of the damage: http://imgur.com/a/q7Hfv

All other damage is cosmetic in nature or too simple to be an issue.

First off, are there any special steps I should take since my bike has the potential to be sitting for quite a while?

My biggest concern in terms of repairs is the potential for damage to the frame. This is main reason why I included the picture of the handlebar and the damage to the exhaust pipe. In your opinion, do I need to perform a dimensional check of the frame per the repair manual? If so, is there any way I can get around completely dropping the engine like the manual instructs? If the frame was messed up, and I fixed everything else, could I take the bike for a spin in a parking lot and "feel" whether or not is was out of alignment?

Next is damage to the stator. I have ordered a tool to remove the alternator cover, and am waiting for it to come in before proceeding.
  • What in particular should I look for once the cover is off?
  • If there is damage to the stator, what should I careful of when replacing it?
  • How can I check to see if the crankshaft bent?
  • I already have grey silicone, and will be replacing any O-ring I come across. Should I go ahead and replace anything else while I have the cover off?
  • Additional considerations?

As a newbie mechanic, I greatly appreciate your time and input.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Looks to me like an easy salvage job for the weekend mechanic.


Your stator cover will need to be replaced, but you knew that. I'd doubt your actual rotor and or stator took any real damage from the pics. Order a replacement cover from Ebay but put a new bearing in there.

The exhaust damage is all aesthetic. A couple of rubber bushings and you should be all good. Honestly they probably looked like that before the crash and you just didn't know it.

The handle bar and controls will need to be replaced. The good news is that the bar snapped off. That leads me to believe the hit was quick and direct. The bars broke the fall. All equipment easily sourced from Ebay from sellers like Gotham Cycles. YoyoDyne can sell you a new master cylinder for about EBay asking price for used. Peace of mind says buy new so you don't end up wanting to rebuild an "unrebuildable" master in a couple of months.

I doubt your frame is bent. Are your forks tweaked at all? They will generally bend long before a frame will give up. An easy inspection is to look all over the head stock and check every weld thoroughly, might even use a magnifying glass, and check for cracks in the paint. A headstock that got moved will generally have paint lifting off of it somewhere. Of course that isn't the most scientific method but it will give you a place to start.

You can order cheap rearsets from here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-750-S...item3f1bc9c174 You'll need to change out to high mount exhaust or make hangers for the cans and will be a monoposta. Or you can just watch Ebay or the parts forum here for "Z" plates. I used them on a bike I built up.

Here is a parts fiche for your bike if you don't already have one.
http://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/m6...ine&mode=embed
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you for the thorough reply. Stuff like checking the headstock and the parts fiche you provided are exactly what I was looking for. You rock.

Now the picture of the exhaust doesn't show it clearly, but the mounting tab crumpled up to the point that it actually caused a sizeable indent in the pipe. No puncture, but it did reduce the diameter of the pipe by around 30%. Will this not cause problems?

As for the rear sets, I actually already have a high mount exhaust, so that's good! Since I already have to replace all but one foot peg and both the rear brake and gearshift levers I have been considering these aftermarket rear sets: http://houstonsuperbikes.com/i-86044...ixed-pegs.html.
They look pretty fly, but I'm not sure its worth the extra $200-$300 over stock parts. Plus the cost if I add passenger pegs. Do you find the adjustability to be a big bonus?

Last edited by maidup; 11-27-2012 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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loosen the lower triple clamp bolts on the forks and retighten them - I've slid mine a few times, often the forks and triples will get "tweaked" (or maybe "torqued" is a better way to put it), you loosen the lower triple clamp bolts and they "pop" back into alignment, retorque to spec (what is it, 12 or 13 ft-lbs I think) and go! DON'T overtorque them, the material on the triple is thin and will easily break from tension, even aftermarket 7075 alloy.

If you think the front hit hard and you're worried about the forks actually being tweaked or bent, and binding, you can support the front end (I use a jackstand under the horizontal cylender, just lift the bike onto it by hand, but that's kindof crude and barberic, a front triple stand or engine stand would be friendlier), unscrew the fork caps to remove the spring tension (with the handlebars out of the way), and run the forks through their full travel, see if they are sticking or binding anywhere.

Outside of that, check the alignment, front to rear. I use a string, back tire is wider than front, so with the bars straight, at the trailing edge of the front tire there should be the same air gap from the tire edge to string on both sides. There's more precise methods, if you have a few simple tools and some imagination, but the string method is easy and "good enough for government".

That is, assuming you check the welds carefully first, especially the steering neck, and those on the rear swingarm, but try to check all of them thoroughly. As outlined by Caferacermike, check thoroughly, cracked welds tend to be pretty obvious.

If the front and rear are true, nothing is cracked, nothing is binding, and the engine runs, go ride!!!
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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BTW - if you want to tackle the exhaust, you could heat it up good with a MAP torch and crush it back to it's vaguely original shape. It shouldn't hurt your performance though, unless you've done some valve work, porting, high compression pistons, etc.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have a 2005 monster dark in which I'm switching over to dual headlights... which means I'll have a single circle headlight up for grabs if you need it good sir.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I appreciate the offer, but the headlight came out mostly unscathed. Thanks anyways!
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