About to start post-wreck rehab for my M620. What have I overlooked? - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 26
About to start post-wreck rehab for my M620. What have I overlooked?

So I recently got a bit too friendly with a van while riding my 2006 M620. No collision insurance. I probably have enough money set aside to just let the dealer take care of it, but I finally have a garage and an expanding collection of tools so I would prefer to do as much of the repair work as I can. I would like to get as much of this done as possible before January as once the new year rolls around my free time will disappear for a while. With that in mind I need to ensure that I can gather all the parts and any specialty tools I will need as quickly as possible.

This is where I need your help. I have an idea of what needs to be done, but I would like some of you salty veterans to point out what I have missed. Also, some of the necessary tasks could be beyond my current skill level, so I would also appreciate a heads up of any mistakes that could cause extensive damage to the bike. As a frame of reference I have been taking care of all of the routine maintenance (oil change, replacing filters and brake pads, chain tensioning, spark plug replacement etc), but I have not had a garage until recently so I let the shop take care of the more daunting tasks of timing belt and valve adjustments.

Now to the good stuff! Here is a link to the pictures of the damage: http://imgur.com/a/q7Hfv

All other damage is cosmetic in nature or too simple to be an issue.

First off, are there any special steps I should take since my bike has the potential to be sitting for quite a while?

My biggest concern in terms of repairs is the potential for damage to the frame. This is main reason why I included the picture of the handlebar and the damage to the exhaust pipe. In your opinion, do I need to perform a dimensional check of the frame per the repair manual? If so, is there any way I can get around completely dropping the engine like the manual instructs? If the frame was messed up, and I fixed everything else, could I take the bike for a spin in a parking lot and "feel" whether or not is was out of alignment?

Next is damage to the stator. I have ordered a tool to remove the alternator cover, and am waiting for it to come in before proceeding.
  • What in particular should I look for once the cover is off?
  • If there is damage to the stator, what should I careful of when replacing it?
  • How can I check to see if the crankshaft bent?
  • I already have grey silicone, and will be replacing any O-ring I come across. Should I go ahead and replace anything else while I have the cover off?
  • Additional considerations?

As a newbie mechanic, I greatly appreciate your time and input.
maidup is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 11:43 PM
Super Moderator

caferacermike's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3,120
Looks to me like an easy salvage job for the weekend mechanic.

Your stator cover will need to be replaced, but you knew that. I'd doubt your actual rotor and or stator took any real damage from the pics. Order a replacement cover from Ebay but put a new bearing in there.

The exhaust damage is all aesthetic. A couple of rubber bushings and you should be all good. Honestly they probably looked like that before the crash and you just didn't know it.

The handle bar and controls will need to be replaced. The good news is that the bar snapped off. That leads me to believe the hit was quick and direct. The bars broke the fall. All equipment easily sourced from Ebay from sellers like Gotham Cycles. YoyoDyne can sell you a new master cylinder for about EBay asking price for used. Peace of mind says buy new so you don't end up wanting to rebuild an "unrebuildable" master in a couple of months.

I doubt your frame is bent. Are your forks tweaked at all? They will generally bend long before a frame will give up. An easy inspection is to look all over the head stock and check every weld thoroughly, might even use a magnifying glass, and check for cracks in the paint. A headstock that got moved will generally have paint lifting off of it somewhere. Of course that isn't the most scientific method but it will give you a place to start.

You can order cheap rearsets from here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-750-S...item3f1bc9c174 You'll need to change out to high mount exhaust or make hangers for the cans and will be a monoposta. Or you can just watch Ebay or the parts forum here for "Z" plates. I used them on a bike I built up.

Here is a parts fiche for your bike if you don't already have one.

06 Paul Smart Sport Classic NFS ever.
08 S4RS Tricolore #081 NFS ever.
01 M600, aka, The Pink Monster
97 900SS CR
72 Norton Commando 750
03 KX60 with S4R rear shock,Honda CB350F, Hodaka Ace90, 3x Yam-YGS1, Yam-CS3 200, Vespa small frame, Gilera 106, Puch Sabre, Puch 50 Boy Racer, Ducati 250 bevel, Benelli 250, Benelli 360, Honda CB350T, and many more.
caferacermike is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 26
Thank you for the thorough reply. Stuff like checking the headstock and the parts fiche you provided are exactly what I was looking for. You rock.

Now the picture of the exhaust doesn't show it clearly, but the mounting tab crumpled up to the point that it actually caused a sizeable indent in the pipe. No puncture, but it did reduce the diameter of the pipe by around 30%. Will this not cause problems?

As for the rear sets, I actually already have a high mount exhaust, so that's good! Since I already have to replace all but one foot peg and both the rear brake and gearshift levers I have been considering these aftermarket rear sets: http://houstonsuperbikes.com/i-86044...ixed-pegs.html.
They look pretty fly, but I'm not sure its worth the extra $200-$300 over stock parts. Plus the cost if I add passenger pegs. Do you find the adjustability to be a big bonus?

Last edited by maidup; 11-28-2012 at 12:05 AM.
maidup is offline  
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 06:07 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 6
loosen the lower triple clamp bolts on the forks and retighten them - I've slid mine a few times, often the forks and triples will get "tweaked" (or maybe "torqued" is a better way to put it), you loosen the lower triple clamp bolts and they "pop" back into alignment, retorque to spec (what is it, 12 or 13 ft-lbs I think) and go! DON'T overtorque them, the material on the triple is thin and will easily break from tension, even aftermarket 7075 alloy.

If you think the front hit hard and you're worried about the forks actually being tweaked or bent, and binding, you can support the front end (I use a jackstand under the horizontal cylender, just lift the bike onto it by hand, but that's kindof crude and barberic, a front triple stand or engine stand would be friendlier), unscrew the fork caps to remove the spring tension (with the handlebars out of the way), and run the forks through their full travel, see if they are sticking or binding anywhere.

Outside of that, check the alignment, front to rear. I use a string, back tire is wider than front, so with the bars straight, at the trailing edge of the front tire there should be the same air gap from the tire edge to string on both sides. There's more precise methods, if you have a few simple tools and some imagination, but the string method is easy and "good enough for government".

That is, assuming you check the welds carefully first, especially the steering neck, and those on the rear swingarm, but try to check all of them thoroughly. As outlined by Caferacermike, check thoroughly, cracked welds tend to be pretty obvious.

If the front and rear are true, nothing is cracked, nothing is binding, and the engine runs, go ride!!!
FrankenDuc is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 06:24 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 6
BTW - if you want to tackle the exhaust, you could heat it up good with a MAP torch and crush it back to it's vaguely original shape. It shouldn't hurt your performance though, unless you've done some valve work, porting, high compression pistons, etc.
FrankenDuc is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-18-2012, 03:29 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 5
I have a 2005 monster dark in which I'm switching over to dual headlights... which means I'll have a single circle headlight up for grabs if you need it good sir.
7w3ak is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 26
I appreciate the offer, but the headlight came out mostly unscathed. Thanks anyways!
maidup is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome