for the chain/gear issue, you can do two things-
option 1 stay with a 520, put a 520 pitch gear on the back or since you're already in it put a quickchange carier on it with a 42t 520 gear (stock sssa comes with 39 or 40t and the 696 comes with 45t)
option 2 up the front sprocket to a 525 and you'll still need to put a larger rear sprocket on the back to get responsiveness off the line
either way you'll need a new chain because of the change in gearing and the new sprocket(s)
I personally went with the jt carrier and sprocket because it cost 1/2 what an STM or Driven costs. Since I reduced weight using the carier and sprocket, I wasn't concerned with going to a heavier 525 chain especially since it will increase the life of the drive line.
While you're at it, I'd suggest stepping up for a set of woodcraft, rizoma, or ducabike rear sets to get the big fugly batwing peg bracket out of the way. if you upgrade rear sets you will likely need to get a presure switch banjo bolt for the rear brake line at the master cylinder. Some rear sets like the woodcraft do not come with a mount for the detent type rear brake switch and the presure type switch handles that, they're about $10.
The big issues withthe front wheel is having the same bolt pattern, some are five others are six, and having the same width between rotors at the hub to ensure that your offset and the spacing for the reluctor wheel on your front speed sensor are correct. I don't have an ABS bike so I can't tell you the specifics on what years and parts will work, but those are the things to measure and inspect. BTW no one makes a 5mm spacer set for the front rotors if the offset is incorrect due to the fact that the rotor needs lands at the hub for centering. You can get 5mm spacers for the calipers from motowheels though to handle the diameter change if you find a set of 330mm rotors laying around and you want that one finger modulation from the brakes.
Another fun note for you- the exhaust off the 796 and the 1100(s) will fit your engine, so if you want to up the pipe size for better upper end power it is a stock swap. The shutter valve on the larger exhaust (there is not one on the 696) is spring loaded to open so you don't have to remove or modify it. The only catch is that when just barely putting around at 4k rpm especially down a long hill, you will get a check engine light on occasionally for the o2 sensors due to the change in flow from the pipes, it turns right back off a moment after you crack the throttle. I'm sure the map can be tuned to compensate, but I haven't gotten into that yet. With a set of termi's, dp ecu, and a K&n my bike rips and has a more than healthy sound compared to stock.