Testing Crankshaft Position Sensor

[memetic]

Can someone please let me know if I am doing this right? I unhooked the sensor and there are three prongs; I tested the sensor by touching the red and black probes of my multi-meter to the prongs in a variety of possible configurations. My meter just reads 1 Ohm no matter which way I touch the prongs.

First, am I doing this right? Second, what should the Ohm reading be to know if it is good or bad? I think I read somewhere that a reading of 1 Ohm means the sensor is shot. I can't find where I read that and don't even know if that is correct. Anyone who knows the answers please help me out. Thank you.

[Capo]

Its a hall effect sensor, and is powered from the ECU, a simple rig can be made to test the fuctionality.

[memetic]

Originally Posted by Capo

Its a hall effect sensor, and is powered from the ECU, a simple rig can be made to test the fuctionality.

Can't I just use a multi-meter? Thanks.

[caferacermike]

Yeah waiting patiently as well. I'd love to get some info on this "rig". Might be handy to have the info in my garage for future reference.

[Capo]

http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint3_1.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1XzwZE6n8M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1XzwZE6n8M

Here is a tester circuit

[memetic]

That's great but my sensor doesn't have colored wires, there is no little knob to turn and I still don't know what sort of reading I am looking for to determine if my sensor is bad.

I really appreciate your time posting this up, but I still don't know what to do. I need to find a manual dammit. Thanks.

[Capo]

Technical Data
Supply voltage.....................................4.5 > 24 Vdc
Nominal sensing distance............................1.5 mm
Max be increased in proportion to pick up size
Current (typ) .................................................1 0 mA
Current (max) ...............................................20 mA
Enviroment sealing................................... IP67
Weight............................................ ..............30 g
Temperature range ........................ -30 > + 130 °C
Tightening torque........................................... 6 Nm
Output............................................ ...........PNP
Output sink voltage ............................0.4v Max
Trigger type........................................... ferrous

Electrical connections
Pin 1 Gnd
Pin 2 signal
Pin 3 VBB

On models with electric speedometer, it is interchangable with the sensor on the rear wheel, hook up the meter and rotate the wheel, failing that remove plugs and turn engine over.

[caferacermike]

Originally Posted by Capo

On models with electric speedometer, it is interchangable with the sensor on the rear wheel, hook up the meter and rotate the wheel, failing that remove plugs and turn engine over.

That sounds like gold.

So in the event of a questionable sensor, in theory, could you place the crank sensor in place of the speedo sensor and quickly turn the back tire to see if the speedometer activates?

Or would it be better to move the speedo sensor to the crank and fire the bike up?

[memetic]

Capo, I appreciate your input I really do, but I am an architect not an electrical engineer. I need basics -- basics for a layman -- not basics for an engineer. I need to know how to test my sensor; like which prongs do I hook my multi-meter to and what to do after they are hooked up. That sort of basic info. Thank you.

[Capo]

Ok, a hall effect sensor works by emitting a pulse when a ferrous object moves though its sensing field, in the case of the crankshaft sensor this will be (on later models) the teeth on the layshaft gear. A pulse is generated each time a tooth passes the sensor.
Now the sensor is powered so the wire to pin 3 is hot, pin 1 is ground and the pulse appears on pin 2. Your meter should be connected to pins 1&2, with power on (check pins 3-1) the voltage will go from zero to positive each time a pulse is generated.