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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Need Help Please

Everything was great, no issues at all with my bike. I just finished putting speedymoto frames sliders on and then went for a quick ride. I was only half a mile and she died very suddenly. The engine just cut right off.

The battery is fine; the engine turns over; all the fuses are good; all the wires appear to be connected to where they go. I need help troubleshooting after this point.

All my mechanical knowledge is building/restoring muscle cars. There was no such thing as ecu's and electronics they just had a few wires. My guess is something electrical happened because of the quick shutoff. If the fuel pump stopped working I imagine it would sound like I ran out of gas -- glug glug glug off. So, I am going to go see if the plugs are getting spark. After that I am clueless.

I hope someone can give me some guidance so I can fix this today. Please help. Thanks.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 11:27 AM
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Maybe a short at your KILL switch?? Then again, I ride a bike w/o a computer...
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 11:29 AM
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Air, fuel, spark, compression.
Air- no air mass sensor, and even losing a vacuum line from the charcaol canister wouldn't do squat
Fuel- turn the key on and you can hear the fuel pump run for about 5 seconds, if not there's a start.
Spark- ECU would likely give you fault codes, and you can always pull a wire to check for spark, one coil wouldn't shut you down that quick, so it would have to affect both- possible fuse
compression- unless you heard a loud bang and rattle or your bike has 100k miles- this one is not likely either
If the bike has fuel in the tank and power from the battery and no faults on the screen, you're looking for something that would affect an entire system without throwing a fault-
kickstand switch, kill switch, possibly the fuel pump relay
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I am not getting spark.

Things I know:
I have gas.
The battery is new.
The fuel pump turns on when I turn the key.
I checked the kickstand jumper I put in. It is solid.
The engine turns over.

I don't have a way to check fault codes 65218 (I am guessing there is a tool for that). I am now at the point where I am not sure what to do. I hate electrical issues. I need help. Is there a checklist?

I have money to take it to the shop, but I really want to learn so I can take care of my own stuff. Please help, thanks.

edit: This is a 2001 M900. Thanks everyone.

edit: I did some more research; could it be the crankshaft position sensor?

Last edited by memetic; 11-02-2012 at 12:25 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 12:38 PM
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You would have a check engine light on if you had codes, I'm not sure if the older clusters will pull up codes with the buttons- check the owner's manual.

While you may have a new battery, your electrical system may have some issues. pull the contacts where your ground is bolted to the engine block on the right upper rear, and the positive cable leads to the starter relay, starter, etc.. sand them down with fine enery cloth and put dielectric grease on them when you reconnect them. use a generous helping in the lead at the starter in the boot. A little resistance from some corrosion or even a loose connection significantly reduces voltage to the rest of the system causing sytematic faults.

It may just be coincidence on a 11 yr old bike, but the frame slider install may be a culprit- did the engine shift when you removed the original bolt? Two things might have occured- first any number of connectors could have come undone if one end was zip tied to the frame and the other to the motor. I'd start with the crank position sensor at the left case cover and trace it up. the other problem is that a wire may have become pinched between the frame and the block.
next, there are two relays up on the front left of the battery tray. if you check the wiring diagram and trace the wiries, you can figure out which one feeds the ignition system. there are four wires to basic relay- two to the magnetic coil to activate it (a power and ground- one will be switched by the ecu, key swith, or kill switch) a main power supply in and a main power supply out. (i don't know your proficiency level with electronics so excuse me if I am oversimplifying or giving you info you already know)
You can also take the cover off the relay, carefully, and check the contact points to se if they are burnt. if so, sand them down with fine grit emery cloth for a temporary fix unitll you can get new ones from the dealer.

Beyond that- there is way too much to get into on a forum and you should get some face to face help from a local or take it to the dealer.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65218 View Post
You would have a check engine light on if you had codes, I'm not sure if the older clusters will pull up codes with the buttons- check the owner's manual.

While you may have a new battery, your electrical system may have some issues. pull the contacts where your ground is bolted to the engine block on the right upper rear, and the positive cable leads to the starter relay, starter, etc.. sand them down with fine enery cloth and put dielectric grease on them when you reconnect them. use a generous helping in the lead at the starter in the boot. A little resistance from some corrosion or even a loose connection significantly reduces voltage to the rest of the system causing sytematic faults.

It may just be coincidence on a 11 yr old bike, but the frame slider install may be a culprit- did the engine shift when you removed the original bolt? Two things might have occured- first any number of connectors could have come undone if one end was zip tied to the frame and the other to the motor. I'd start with the crank position sensor at the left case cover and trace it up. the other problem is that a wire may have become pinched between the frame and the block.
next, there are two relays up on the front left of the battery tray. if you check the wiring diagram and trace the wiries, you can figure out which one feeds the ignition system. there are four wires to basic relay- two to the magnetic coil to activate it (a power and ground- one will be switched by the ecu, key swith, or kill switch) a main power supply in and a main power supply out. (i don't know your proficiency level with electronics so excuse me if I am oversimplifying or giving you info you already know)
You can also take the cover off the relay, carefully, and check the contact points to se if they are burnt. if so, sand them down with fine grit emery cloth for a temporary fix unitll you can get new ones from the dealer.

Beyond that- there is way too much to get into on a forum and you should get some face to face help from a local or take it to the dealer.
Awesome! Thank you very much. You know, I had a feeling the frame slider install was the culprit -- it was way too easy. There was a slight shift in the engine at one point. It didn't seem like very much, but the way you put it makes me think that's all it takes.

I am going to start chasing down all those wires and follow your advice on the other stuff. Thank you, you explained everything just fine.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I went through all the connections and wires and everything appears to be fine. Could it just be that the crankshaft position sensor went bad? I am going to look into getting (or borrowing) an ohmeter today to test it. I read somewhere that it should give a value of "1" to be good. Is this correct? Thanks.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 07:50 PM
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I'm not sure what it should be, my meter is at a friends house so I can't checkmine for you.
On a Benz it's typically 8-12k ohms when good, 2 Mohm- open circuit when bad.
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