696 front sprocket change - Page 5 - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
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post #41 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 08:14 PM
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How about doing it on the single sided swingarm? I haven't adjusted chain tension yet, is it pretty straight forward?
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post #42 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 08:34 PM
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I finally did mine. I was able to do it without removing the rearsets by using the technique mentioned before about removing the chain from the rear sprocket. The only thing I'm not certain about is my chain tension. I haven't had a chance to ride it today but hopefully it will be much better.

I actually managed to do it without using a rear stand as well, which I didn't think was going to be the case.
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post #43 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 04:37 PM
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Today, with a help of a friend I changed out the OEM sprocket over to 14T AFAM sprocket. I have a 2009 1100M and there is no way in hell that I could have gotten the chain off the rear sprocket first. Might be b/c my chain is relatively new, under 400 miles, but I ended up taking off the rearset along with the bike stand to access it - I found it much easier and faster than to fiddle around with the rear chain. Btw - the best mod to date, cheap with noticeable results.

During this time I also swapped out the slave cylinder and replaced it with a Evoluzione 30 slave cylinder. Two must do mods.
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post #44 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 08:51 PM
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Hey all,
I have a 695 and I'm trying to swap to a 14T sprocket. I was able to get the 15T off but the chain doesn't appear to work with the sprocket. Looks the like pitch is off because I can engage 4 teeth but the 5th tooth lines up directly with a rivet. The chain links say DID 520 V6. I bought the sprocket from the dealer (JTF740-14). I'm just trying to figure if the issue is the chain, the sprocket, or me. :/

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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post #45 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 09:54 PM
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Is the chain new too?
If the chain lines up ok with the rear sprocket, then the front sprocket must be wrong.
If it doesn't line up with the rear, then the chain is wrong.

2010 696 ProTune Powermap programmer, EvoTech tail, Quat D Alum slip ons, Artrax wavy rotors, K&N, 14T, bar risers, G2 Throttle Tamer. Still working on swapping all of the black plastic over to carbon fiber. Oh, and no more ugly charcoal canister!
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post #46 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 08:53 AM
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Hey TonyDiv,
I appreciate the response. The chain is not new but I'm not sure how many miles on it. My guess is its the original chain so that'd give it 5600 miles. The chain works fine with the rear sprocket so I agree, I think its an issue with the sprocket. I'll take it back to the dealer and see what they say. Thanks!
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post #47 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 07:46 PM
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I'm about to do the 14T swap on my 2009 696. It's still almost brand new but I don't like how I need to rev it so much off the line to prevent it from stalling, or how it bucks aggressively at very low speeds. It feels great if I were on Mugello, but in regular traffic it is finnicky like my Mustang (which also has numerically low rear gears). Everyone with the same S197 GT told me to go 3.73s or higher, but I stuck with 3.55s so I can get a higher top speed and better fuel mileage.

Anyhow, I noticed a few people complaining about hitting the rev limiter easier. The stock revlimiter is something like 8500 RPM. I have the DP/Race ECU and I verified that in 1st gear, my revlimiter is at 9700 RPM. I heard that 1st gear's limiter is lower than the other gears, I don't know how high I can go in 2nd gear because I haven't had a chance to open it up on the freeway.

It seems the consensus is to just loosen/move the rear wheel forward and slip off the chain from the rear sprocket - versus removing/loosening the rear set.

What about tightening the rear axle nuts and the tensioner screws? There is a great debate on whether to torque (tighten) the adjuster screws or torque (unscrew/loosen) the adjuster screws to 8 N-m. Which axle nut should we loosen/tighten, or do we do it on both sides?

What is the tightening sequence for the clutch slave cylinder? The factory manual says 1-2-3-1, so which screw is 2 and 3?

These are not the droids you are looking for...
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post #48 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 02:02 AM
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New Chain?

Lots of good info here!
I see most of you are using the same chain. I have purchased the 14T front sprocket and have about 8000km (5000miles) total on the bike and chain. The chain is in good shape. The shop manual says to replace the sprocket and chains as a set. Im wondering if I Im going to be okay reusing my current chain, or should I get a new one?

To answer the question about the slave cylinder I hope this picture helps.
Click image for larger version

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You can see which bolts are indicated as 1, 2 and 3.

Last edited by Limejuice; 12-26-2012 at 02:04 AM.
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post #49 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 02:04 PM
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You're good to go. No need to replace it if it is not too worn.
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post #50 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 02:18 PM
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It seems the consensus is to just loosen/move the rear wheel forward and slip off the chain from the rear sprocket - versus removing/loosening the rear set.

What about tightening the rear axle nuts and the tensioner screws? There is a great debate on whether to torque (tighten) the adjuster screws or torque (unscrew/loosen) the adjuster screws to 8 N-m. Which axle nut should we loosen/tighten, or do we do it on both sides?

What is the tightening sequence for the clutch slave cylinder? The factory manual says 1-2-3-1, so which screw is 2 and 3?[/QUOTE]

1) I would agree. You will also need to take off the clutch slave as well.
2) Torque down the axle nut on the right side of the bike and then torque down the adjusters to snug them up 8N-m. Do not loosen them.
3) Doesn't matter. Just go around the slave equally so it sets into its place evenly (123,123,123...) Then torque the bolts down 1231(check 2 and 3 as well)
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