I just took off and reinstalled my rear wheel to get the tire replaced. So of course I readjusted the chain. It's not hard, but you can do some serious damage. Not serious as in "your moto will never work again" but serious as in "it costs HOW MUCH to replace those broken chain adjusters?" The advice I'll give is use a 30mm socket for the swing arm nuts. Don't use an adjustable. Any car part store will have a 30mm socket. You might need a breaker to break the torque. Also, don't overtighten the adjuster bolts. Actually, don't tighten them at all, as they take 8lb/ft to torque them. Just retorque the swingarm nuts.
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This guy knows what he's talking about. Only manual you'll need. WOrking on a desmo is not hard IF you take your time.
PS: you need to loosen the swingarm nuts because they keep your axle, and thus wheel, in place. Can't adjust the chain if the wheel won't move, since the chain is attached the the wheel.