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12-01-2011, 09:34 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NL
Posts: 16
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2002 600 Dark questions
Hi,
A friend of mine has a 2002 Dark which I am considering buying and having a winter project to get it on the road. I did post a question on the Tech forum about this, but I was misinformed about the year and engine size.
The bike was bought in the US. I have the vin number and can confirm it is a 2002 build and classified as an M600.
I have a few questions. It is definitely matt black. Does this therefore make it a carb vesion or was a fuel injection model also made in matt black. Therefore a 600 and not a 620? Research on the web indicates only carb version and therefore 600cc, but I am led to believe this has injectors. I can't verify this myself for a few weeks.
Does this version also come with ABS?
The bike has stood under cover for 4 years and looks OK, except some rust on the forks which will definitely need attention. I am making a list of what I will need to check in order to estimate a purchase price. As it has rust whilst covered, I am worried that moisture may have got inside the engine. I am contemplating removing the heads before turning it over to check for moisture damage to valves and bores. Any advice on this?
My replacement list includes:
Forks overhaul; all fluids and filters;tyres; timing belt (required after 4 years innactivity - it has never been replaced and battery. Exhaust looks ok, but not sure what insides will be like.
Any advice on my questions please? Should I steer clear?
Regards
Griffs
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12-12-2011, 07:30 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NL
Posts: 16
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Riiiight...
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12-12-2011, 09:11 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,509
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The color will have nothing to do with the carburetion vs. injection. I don't know for sure whether the 600 was carbureted or injected, although I'd guess by 2002 it was injected. The flat black was just a color option that was a few hundred bucks cheaper -- they call it the "dark" option, and have used in on several models. The 600 was only for a couple of years at most before they bumped it up to the 620, which I know was injected.
It will not have ABS; that came much later.
Your replacement list sounds fair -- pretty much the same as for any bike that's been sitting, plus the cambelts. This is pretty much the smallest and cheapest Ducati that has been sold in America in a long time, so it's not in great demand. If you can buy it and do all your replacements for less than about $2K, go for it -- much more than that, and it's only worth it if you really like that particular bike.
PhilB
__________________
1993 Ducati M900 Monster "Patina" (198,000 miles, so far) -- 1995 Ducati M900 (wife's bike) -- 1972 Honda CB450 (daughter's bike) -- 1967 Alfa Romeo GT Jr. (1300cc) -- 1964 Vespa GS160 (160cc 2-stroke) -- 1962 Maicoletta scooter (275cc 2-stroke) -- 1960 Heinkel Tourist 103A1 scooter "Elroy" (175cc 4-stroke)
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12-12-2011, 11:06 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 24
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I have a 2002 620 Dark. It is fuel injected. I was not aware of a carbureted 600 version in 2002.
Fun bike!
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12-12-2011, 12:04 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 723
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I have a 01 600 Dark, it has carburetors. The Dark had a few items omitted for cheaper substitutes and some pieces omitted altogether. For example they only had a rotor and caliper on one side of the front end. Very torquey and spirited in the low range, a little flat above 70mph. Overall a great commuter bike.
__________________
06 Paul Smart Sport Classic NFS ever.
08 S4RS Tricolore #081 NFS ever.
01 M600, aka, The Pink Monster
72 Norton Commando 750
Honda CB350F, Hodaka Ace90, 3x Yam-YGS1, Yam-CS3 200, Vespa small frame, Gilera 106, Puch Sabre, Puch 50 Boy Racer, Ducati 250 bevel, Benelli 250, Benelli 360, and many more.
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12-12-2011, 02:17 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 35
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It's a great bike, my first Ducati.
The only problem I had was a leaky clutch slave cylinder, best replaced with an aftermarket version.
The carbed version takes a few attempts to start on very cold days but not a big deal.
Best of all...METAL TANK
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12-14-2011, 02:02 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NL
Posts: 16
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Guys, thanks for the input.
I have 1991 Yamaha XJ600, pre diversion. It ois pretty quick and no problem getting to 120 quickly. Although its old, it stood in a mates garage for 12 years and only has 7,000 miles on the clock. As the driver behind getting the Monster was ABS, not sure it is worth the exchange now it hasn't got any.
Also, my local Yam dealer says to change the cam belts will require special tools so really out of scope for the home mechanic. Any advice here? I want to save money and do it myself if possible. Otherwise I will just stay with Yamaha.
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12-14-2011, 02:57 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 723
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Well it is true that you might want some specialized tools, however they aren't that expensive. The main thing you might want is a cam lock and those are $20 and up on ebay. The valve adjustments are a PITA but with time and experience the home mechanic can keep up with them as well.
There isn't anything wrong with the Yamaha you have and the maintenance intervals are probably insanely far apart compared to the Ducati. Heck I don't even know if our M600 will reach 120mph. About the only difference it's that you won't have a Ducati. Once you own one it's as though no other bikes seem to matter anymore. I went 12 years of riding without owning a Ducati thinking they were to expensive and out of my reach. I finally bought a second hand M750 about 2 1/2 year ago and within 3 months found myself owning 3 more Ducati's. I was flat broke but just found a way to make it happen. I've owned about 80 bikes in the last 13 years everything from 50cc scooters to liter bikes spanning over the last 50 years of manufacturing. The Ducati has grabbed my attention like no other and I can't wait till March when I buy my next one.
__________________
06 Paul Smart Sport Classic NFS ever.
08 S4RS Tricolore #081 NFS ever.
01 M600, aka, The Pink Monster
72 Norton Commando 750
Honda CB350F, Hodaka Ace90, 3x Yam-YGS1, Yam-CS3 200, Vespa small frame, Gilera 106, Puch Sabre, Puch 50 Boy Racer, Ducati 250 bevel, Benelli 250, Benelli 360, and many more.
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01-02-2012, 03:38 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Griffs
Also, my local Yam dealer says to change the cam belts will require special tools so really out of scope for the home mechanic. Any advice here? I want to save money and do it myself if possible. Otherwise I will just stay with Yamaha.
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Not sure the Yamaha dealer is the best to ask that kind of question! Cam belt change requires no "special" tools; in fact requires almost no tools at all (5/6mm allen key, normal metric socket set).
Hope you decided on a Ducati!
Mark
__________________
Mark
92 750SS
01 M750
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01-15-2012, 03:31 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NL
Posts: 16
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so.... with excitement from reading Caferacermike and markk900 I bought the Dark.
It is a 2002 620 ie. To racap, it has stood in a semi open garage since 2006. I have already bought new to replace chain timing belts, batter, plugs,filters (oil and air) and all fluids. The forks will also be removed.
But I need some expert help please. Before I start a major overhaul I want to start the engine to make sure all is ok so I can eliminate my own causes during my work.
I replaced the battery. I have a red key.
So, I drained tank, added new fuel, changed battery. removed old plugs, lubed cylinders and manually turned engine. Then I c ranked and confirmed that I get a spark at the plugs, so all looks good.
But, with plugs in, engine cranks but wont fire. I don't smell any fuel. Plugs not wet and no smell of fuel in exhaust. No splits in fuels lines.
After searching this forum I am lead through some incomplete threads that I should hear the fuel pump running for s few seconds. Is this really noticeable? All I hear are the gauges rotate on self test. I think I should be hearing the fuel pump charge the system. Is this each time I turn the key, or, does it not do anything if it is charged with pressure. If I have a problem, which relay should I check? If not a relay then I guess I need to remove the pump.
I think this is in the tank? So I need to drain the tank to get to it.
I am making a lot of assumptions here. Can anyone help me here please. I have workshop manual ordered, but I am so impatient and excited to get this bike working again.
I promise to provide an outcome including pictures if someone can steer me. I am living in Holland so I am unable to get a lot of local information.
Thanks in anticipation.
Griffs
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