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01-27-2012, 10:48 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by striderx240
Thanks, I'm calming down on riding, it's getting colder anyways, but yeah, I replaced the handle bars with a new one and everything is running smooth now. The gas tank is still dented and they said, it's not repairable.
So far, I only have problems with stopping, I'm scared to use my rear brake now, I'm scared it's going to fishtail.
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To avoid the fishtail when apply break you must apply front break and rear break at the same time. This case you must practice more on applying both breaks.
To get more experiences in fishtail I think you should ride the dirt-bike (motocross) in the sand for a week then you never scared about the fishtail anymore
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2011 796 ABS
Termignoni Slip-on, DP ECU, DP Air filter, Rideitmoto CNC Levers, Rideitmoto CNC Bar-end mirrors, Speedymoto frame slider, DP Axle slider, DP Front Fork slider, DP touring seat, DP passenger handle grabs, DP saddle bags, DP tank bag, Garmin Zumo 660, Evo Tech short tail, Rizoma tapered bar, Rizoma Sportline grips, RC Carbon sprocket cover, RC carbon exhaust valve cover, SSR Crankcase Cover.
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01-27-2012, 01:57 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,509
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The ideal method is to apply the rear brake *first* by a split second, then the front, smoothly increasing the front while decreasing the rear.
Starting with the rear initiates the weight transfer forward, allowing you to apply front brake harder without washing out the front wheel. As the weight continues to transfer, you can increase the front as traction builds, and need to decrease the rear as traction is reduced by the transfer.
If you do not let off on the rear, you will get fishtailing.
PhilB
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1993 Ducati M900 Monster "Patina" (198,000 miles, so far) -- 1995 Ducati M900 (wife's bike) -- 1972 Honda CB450 (daughter's bike) -- 1967 Alfa Romeo GT Jr. (1300cc) -- 1964 Vespa GS160 (160cc 2-stroke) -- 1962 Maicoletta scooter (275cc 2-stroke) -- 1960 Heinkel Tourist 103A1 scooter "Elroy" (175cc 4-stroke)
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01-27-2012, 07:03 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 160
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I thought applying the front gets weight forward?
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M600 96'
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01-27-2012, 08:49 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Camp Lejeune
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nubeaddict
I thought applying the front gets weight forward?
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It does, but its also where your main stopping force is, and unlike the rear much more predictable. However you need to use both front and rear (70/30 as stated, lest your trying to pull an indo ><) for maximum breaking power.
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2006 Monster 620 8)
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01-27-2012, 09:06 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nubeaddict
I thought applying the front gets weight forward?
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Applying any brake gets weight forward, in direct proportion to the slowing of the bike.
But doing it as I said gets some weight forward *before* applying the front brake, thus you have more traction to start with when you do apply the front, thus reducing the risk of washing out. If you hit the front brake too hard on its own, it is possible to lose traction immediately, before the bike slows and weight is transferred, and wash out the front and fall down. This is particularly true on loose or bumpy surfaces. Again, I'm only talking a half a second or less of rear before applying the front.
Most of the time, all this doesn't matter. But when you need to make a serious emergency stop, these techniques can save your bacon, so if you make a habit of them in your normal stops, you are much more likely to do it right when it matters the most.
PhilB
__________________
1993 Ducati M900 Monster "Patina" (198,000 miles, so far) -- 1995 Ducati M900 (wife's bike) -- 1972 Honda CB450 (daughter's bike) -- 1967 Alfa Romeo GT Jr. (1300cc) -- 1964 Vespa GS160 (160cc 2-stroke) -- 1962 Maicoletta scooter (275cc 2-stroke) -- 1960 Heinkel Tourist 103A1 scooter "Elroy" (175cc 4-stroke)
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01-29-2012, 10:13 AM
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#26 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 160
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Is it done any dif on a track day or race when wanting to brake as hard n late as possible?
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M600 96'
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01-29-2012, 02:14 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nubeaddict
Is it done any dif on a track day or race when wanting to brake as hard n late as possible?
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Depends. There are a lot more subtleties on the track. Also, on the track you have a lot less worry about loose or uneven surfaces, so you can use just the front harder with more confidence. Some people claim that the rear brake is pointless on the track and say they never use it. OTOH, every MotoGP bike still has one, and when Mick Doohan screwed up his leg so badly, he had his bike modified to allow him to operate the rear brake with a thumb lever, so he thought it was a useful tool.
I would say that the best bet is to start with the sequence I mentioned, and when that is well practiced, then you will have a better understanding of braking dynamics, and can then change things as needed under different conditions with the benefit of knowing better what you are doing.
PhilB
__________________
1993 Ducati M900 Monster "Patina" (198,000 miles, so far) -- 1995 Ducati M900 (wife's bike) -- 1972 Honda CB450 (daughter's bike) -- 1967 Alfa Romeo GT Jr. (1300cc) -- 1964 Vespa GS160 (160cc 2-stroke) -- 1962 Maicoletta scooter (275cc 2-stroke) -- 1960 Heinkel Tourist 103A1 scooter "Elroy" (175cc 4-stroke)
Last edited by philb; 01-29-2012 at 02:17 PM.
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01-29-2012, 05:37 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 53
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Phil: top racers are using the back brake to slide the rear into corners to get around quicker...something we mere mortals should never try on the street!
On the track the rear can be helpful to steady the suspension, but you don't use it for slowing down very much.
Of course, we've drifted quite a bit from fishtailing in normal riding on the street.....I agree that getting time off road really helps develop great skills on the road. Taking the MSF course (or equivalent) is also great advice, but I suspect seat time will be the best cure for the OP's issue (if he can keep himself out of trouble enough to make it through the year).
Mark
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Mark
92 750SS
01 M750
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02-04-2012, 01:31 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Memphis, TN, USA
Posts: 35
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Practice practice practice. All the advice here is very good and positive
The riders courses are great, but lessons learned need to be practiced
Parking lots are great for practicing and trying out new things
Ride with people with lots of experience. Critically watch how the control the bike and watch their decision making abilities.
Keep ur head up. Literally. Chin up. There's not too many good reasons to have to look down. And if the back wheel gets squirrelly, it helps to keep ur balance.
Try dirt bike riding if it's an option. U WILL be a better rider because of it
Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
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Josh
2012 Monster 1100 EVO - red
Memphis, TN
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