Painting Engine Block

[euronesia]

Hi All,
I'm planning to repaint my engine block which has become so ugly and dirty even the texture has become textured like orange skin. Especially the lower cylinder head and its surroundings.

Can anyone suggest or share some inputs on what should I do, what kind of paint or what kind of painting process should I look for so the block can look good again?

Cheers

[dimateodor]

hi, did u go through with this plan? and if you did, can you please share your wisdom with us?
thx!

[Delray]

Old question, but I did this. Used flat black engine paint. cleaned it very thoroughly with degreaser. Got a scotchbrite pad and a putty knife to clean between cooling fins. Toothbrush also. Took much longer to clean and prep than to paint. I taped off everything I did not want to get sprayed.

Turned out beautifully. Lots of complements on the clean flat black motor with the matte black paint scheme.

[AnthonyA714]

Could you post a before an after picture ?

[caferacermike]

We did this all the time to old vintage motorcycles back when I was fixing them up with a friend. Always in frame as well.

We'd use a lot of sand paper, steel wool, tooth brushes, q tips, and Berryman's b12 aerosol cans. Pressure wash the engine to get it as clean as possible and then lightly sand everything. Use whatever you can to clean away as much old paint as possible. If the paint is sticking tight, just scuff it as it's a great primer. Just go after the loose stuff and feather it down to blend in areas where the paint is missing. Spray it all down well with B12 as the stuff will get every trace of oil removed.

Then using aluminum foil, lot's of foil, you can mask off the engine and frame really well with foil. It clings and take shapes really well. Use tape where you need to. Mask it off well as it will show your craftsmanship when completed.

We used VHT engine paints. They are harder to find and run about $7-9 a can. It's a ceramic polymer, not an average paint. Practice first with the paint as it doesn't really like to get second coated. I think you had to wait a couple of days to do a second coat or it will blister right off. The great thing about the paint is that it lays super flat so it looks professional and the heat from the engine will actually bake the paint to the metal, much like powder coating does. There are instructions on the can as to how to heat cycle the engine a couple of times to get the paint to it's best level of protection.

I have an old Norton that I basically did an entire restoration using only VHT "roll cage and frame" paint and the engine paints. Came out looking great. I was able to spray the frame and left it out for a couple of days in the hot Texas sun, the side covers and tank were baked in the kitchen oven and have lasted chip free for 9 years. It becomes solvent resistant as well.

[Delray]

I will get some pictures and post within the next few days. Like Caferacermike said, the ceramic paints have been the ones I have usually seen for high temperature. Engine vs. pipes/headers have a temperature max on the can - usually with the stated use. I have VHT with ceramics for my pipes (I was going to wrap them...but am not sure how).

I used the Rustoleum engine enamel rated up to 500 degrees, as I did not want to hassle with heating it up to cure properly, etc. It has good reviews, but we will see. So far, so good. I was more concerned with getting the motor properly prepped so it would take the paint. With the texture already on these ducati motors it really did not need any scuffing or sanding. It took the enamel really well. I painted the timing belt covers with a different flat black product, but the engine enamel would have probably worked fine.

[Delray]

Ok, here are some pics of the painted motor.