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Takes 3 tries to startup

8K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  amcjen 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I've been having a weird issue with my monster. I bought a '12 Monster off someone and they told me they've had no issues with it. However, i'm running into something weird.

It typically takes me 3 tries to start it up. The first two tries it will make a weird sound and the computer will restart. On the third try it will start up.

Any idea on what the issue could be? Has anyone run into this before?

Thank you

Edit: Here is a video of what is going on https://vid.me/BuY5
 
#6 ·
I don't believe so. I don't remember seeing anything like that. It just shuts off then turns on as if I just turned the ignition.

Perfect time to consider a lithium battery. Read up on them and see if one would work for you. Also a good time to check and clean every battery connection you can find. Dielectric grease time!!
I'll look into that! Thanks :)
 
#5 ·
Perfect time to consider a lithium battery. Read up on them and see if one would work for you. Also a good time to check and clean every battery connection you can find. Dielectric grease time!!
 
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#12 ·
Guess isnt the battery, seems the current is being cut off along the circuit. But let us know if you happen to solve the mystery.
I've had the exact same problem. I check the batt volt before starting and it would be low 12's and sometimes high 11's. I ended up getting a new battery and had a faster crank and never had the same issue (with same code) again. Its easier to change batteries with a low fueltank than a full one. You don't need to remove the fuel lines from the tank, I just spin the tank 90deg and move it until it rests/balances without tension on the 2 fuel hoses.
Looking like I will need a new battery. Seems like that is the suggestion i'm finding online regarding this error :(

The bike`s ecu is resetting - this can be due to a cable short from the starter main cable coming into contact with the engine ground mount - or a bad engine ground.
A simple way to check this is start by removing the starter cable/hose plastic guide fro the front of the engine base( left side )#1 in the photo. to do this remove screws #11 and #14 only.
In photo #2 there is a arrow pointing to the main engine ground bolt location - there have been cases where the starter cable has been damaged by friction due to the cable rubbing against this bolt
resulting in the bike`s ecu resetting during a start procedure. Also make sure that the engine ground bolt is not loose.
Note - this problem is usually due to the cable/hoses not being properly routed after removing and reinstalling the plastic guide to service the bike.
It's definitely resetting, the clock keeps getting reset :( I'm going to take a look at what you're mentioning before I pull the trigger on a new battery. Thank you!
 
#10 ·
I've had the exact same problem. I check the batt volt before starting and it would be low 12's and sometimes high 11's. I ended up getting a new battery and had a faster crank and never had the same issue (with same code) again. Its easier to change batteries with a low fueltank than a full one. You don't need to remove the fuel lines from the tank, I just spin the tank 90deg and move it until it rests/balances without tension on the 2 fuel hoses.
 
#11 ·
The bike`s ecu is resetting - this can be due to a cable short from the starter main cable coming into contact with the engine ground mount - or a bad engine ground.
A simple way to check this is start by removing the starter cable/hose plastic guide fro the front of the engine base( left side )#1 in the photo. to do this remove screws #11 and #14 only.
In photo #2 there is a arrow pointing to the main engine ground bolt location - there have been cases where the starter cable has been damaged by friction due to the cable rubbing against this bolt
resulting in the bike`s ecu resetting during a start procedure. Also make sure that the engine ground bolt is not loose.
Note - this problem is usually due to the cable/hoses not being properly routed after removing and reinstalling the plastic guide to service the bike.
 

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#13 · (Edited)
I took a look at my bike today. I was doing what Mister Ducati suggested. I took off that plastic cover, but I could not see the main engine ground bolt (area is pretty tight with a few cables in the way, hard to see). Where the two cables are tied together using ties, I noticed that the tie was pretty tightly closed against one of the cables (not sure if that is a bad thing or if it doesn't matter).

After realizing that getting at that area to get a good look will take more time then I anticipated, I put that plastic cover back on. For the hell of it, I wanted to see if my bike would start up, and it fired up after the first attempt instead of the typical 3 tries.

I'm not sure why it worked today, the only thing I did was fiddle around with those wires that Mister Ducati suggested I look into.

I don't expect my issue is gone. I may consider just taking my bike to a dealer when this comes up and have them diagnose the issue themselves.
 
#17 ·
I have the identical issue with my bike. When it's cold it always takes 3 cranks, the first two cause the bike and instrument panel. My 11' 796 is on it's second battery at 8k miles and the shop told me it's because the second battery is lithium ion and when cold those batteries require the first couple of cranks to juice it up.....not sure I buy it but whatever. Even when I put it on a trickle charge it says fully charged, I've even had the crank issue right after taking it off the charger.

Be great to hear if anyone has found a real resolution to it besides replacing the battery every 5k miles.
 
#19 ·
One thing you can try that a mechanic recommended for me to try when I was having my issues with the previous battery is to turn the key 2-3 times before trying the starter. Turn once, turn back, turn again, turn back, turn a third time and then try the ignition.
 
#18 ·
Bubbagump, if you are unsure why a LiOn battery takes 2/3 tries in the cold you should watch the videos put out by Ballistic battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk It explains everything in great detail.
 
#20 ·
A motorcycle battery should last at least 3 years with regular use.
Was that the original battery? If so, it may have died due to age and disuse.

I typically get 3 to 5 years, and 35K to 70K miles per battery.
But then I don't have all those electronics systems to deal with.

PhilB
 
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#23 ·
isn't that more to do with resetting the TPS? the 3 key turns?
 
#24 ·
I just started having this issue on a 2014, with the original battery. For the past year I have kept the battery tender connected in between rides. I haven't checked the voltage yet and may need a new one as Skin Bean said his issue cleared with a new one however it doesn't make since to me as it always starts up following the reset. I would think if the battery isn't supplying enough power it would just continue to fail.

Has anyone else had this issue since this thread?
 
#26 ·
I have a 2012 696 that was doing the same thing. I bought and installed a new AGM battery last week (cautious of the lithium batteries bc it’s cold here right now!), and I still get the problem of not starting first try. Added dielectric grease to the battery connections and triple checked the continuity with a multimeter.

Prior to my battery swap, I also had the ABS light on permanently (regardless of enabling/disabling it, and checking it faster than 10’ish mph). Not sure it’s related, but I need to dig back in and see if a hookup was forgotten.

I’ll check the engine ground point mentioned earlier. Hoping this is the issue, as the evaporative canister was removed by the previous owner, so maybe the reassembly was a bit botched down there.

Posting for those who replace the battery and still see this issue. I’ll post back if/when I find the solution!
 
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