First off this battery is the biggest pain in the ass to get out. I have 3 additional positive wires I'm trying to connect to the battery but the bolt is only long enough for 2. Is my only option at this point to pay ducati to sodder them into the fuse box? Ive had 3 previous Japanese bikes and was able to get 4 extra positive cables on the battery.
Why create a sodding problem when all you need is to be smarter than the machine.
An alternative is to crimp 2 wires per terminal.
Personally, I appreciate the fact that Ducati engineered the battery location below the CG. They could have taken the easy way and put it under the seat, above the CG.
BTW, you actually do not need to remove the battery to access the post. Just say to yourself, I'm smarter than this machine.....over and over until it sinks in. :smile
2 of my positives have fuses attached. Currently I can't even get the dust cover to bolt back on because there is no room. I can crimp 2 together but I really doubt they will all cramp under that cover. The fuses would need to go under the dust cover because both of them are too short to run outside. Despite the benefit of dropping COG lower, not worth the tiny space left to work on this bike
Don't get all pissy with the machine or the designers when they are doing exactly what they wanted to do with the battery.
You, on the other hand my friend, are trying to shove 7 pounds of **** into a 5 pound bag. Whose fault would that be?
Step back and ask yourself, does this battery do what a battery does? Does my bike start when I press the go button? Do the lights work when asked? Then it is working exactly as designed.
Have you considered using a lug at the solenoid? The heavy battery cable comes down to the solenoid and there is a threaded post there. Have you considered not needing so much crap to enjoy the ride? Honestly, you sound like the type of person that overloads the sockets in your home with piggy back plugs for all your gadgets. Go to any auto parts store, or Tractor Supply, and you can buy a 6" or 12" or 14" cable with eyes on each end. Buy a 1/4"x20 bolt and nut, put one end on your battery and one end use the nut and bolt to huuk up your gadgets. Then insulate it from grounding.
Spent the afternoon learning to sodder. Got it working and 3 leads is not something I would consider excessive. Mike you don't need to be a d about it, just trying to get my **** working like I have on previous bikes. I live in the northeast need a heated liner to ride through winter, live in a city so have anti theft and need a battery tender lead. Not all of use live in the suburbs with a garage/private parking
Seriously, if you are an adult and have never learned/needed to solder already, as opposed to sodding, you ought to consider handing the project over to someone who is proficient. You would be much happier.
How can it be a fail if I am happy with it? :devil
And, don't tell me to sod myself. :angel
As for putting a lithium battery under the seat, Samsung has enough of them for a fire sale.
If you sir are happy with the battery location, then you are a sadist. haha
Seriously though, if I could fit a lithium battery under there and simply extend and/ or re-route the battery cables to that location? Seems legit. Many of those batteries are quite small nowadays!
or learn to read a wiring diagram? Open fused connector under the tank intended for heated grips, DDS connector under the seat...leaves only one additional wire to connect to the battery.
I ran the power for the alarm directly to the battery. Everything else is pulling power from either the connector under the seat (via the Optimate O-47 adapter I'm using for the battery tender) or from the connector at the front left using the kit I bought (GPS power). I just have to remember that when I re-purpose the pig tails from the battery tender kit that the accessory end is actually opposite from what it says! :wink
How do you guys run extra cables directly to the battery without making new holes in the battery box? Could you post a photo? I'm just worried about water getting into the box.
Lol ... Dropping the battery isn't an issue, it's raising it that's a pain. I used my car jack to push everything in that battery compartment back to flush.
The only reason I can think of to stick the battery in such a bad spot is to force people to use your proprietary battery charger. Asking people to not be mad at bad design is silly, of course it's logical to be able to do things on your bike like connect things to the battery, or even get a jump start but noway on the monster 1200. I love riding the bike but the battery is some ridiculous BS lol. I am not drilling holes or zip tying a bunch of crap up my frame so I will try to find some other way to hook up my Firstgear heated harness without doing that or just not install that on this bike.
Refer to page 232 of the owner manual for jump starting instructions.
As for charging, use any one of several available adapter cables to connect whatever charger your heart desires.
One reason to place the battery in a low position, which you might not have thought of, might have something to do with the center of gravity, not silly design.
1. Like the old Monster, under the tank: always created a compromised small airbox and the 4v makes more bang and needs more airbox volume than the aircooled motors did in the first place. The new Monster also has a lot more wires and electronics to hide under there anyways.
2. Like UJMs, in the rear subframe: Had a look at the Monster's subframe? Thin and delicate to create that svelte stinger rear which would be bollocked up with a battery. Also tiny packaging problem with the rear shock.
3. Like the superbikes, strapped to the side of the frame: yeah, no.
Not that I'm a fan of the arrangement, makes living with the bike a little more tedious and since I do miles, I worry about having to screw with it on the road but (fingers crossed) how often to you really have to mess with it? But I do realize engineering is a compromise. The vexing part isn't so much about the location of the battery as it is they piled a bunch of stuff on top of it making it hard to get to the poles.
For the adventurous, I got to fiddling around with putting the warmnsafe heated gear lead on the battery since the shop left my battery tender one off (note I didn't change it for any particular reason other than it suits my gear setup better, could've just put the SAE ended harness back on) and by grounding the harness at the ground point on the motor, I didn't have to access the one on the battery and therefore didn't have to drop the battery. DO KEEP IN MIND that big chunky metal screw thing on the positive of the battery will be hot and take GREAT care when tightening it down not to ground your wrench or ratchet on something metal. Otherwise you might have an enlightening moment. Not that I encountered that. Nope. Not at all. :devil
Yea I get the reasons and as for charging I don't mind buying the ducati one really. My issue is hooking up heated gear which draws too much power for that charger port so I need to run a harness which is a nightmare as far as I can tell. I am still looking for a way to get from the battery up to (near the seat) to plug in the jacket, pants, gloves but all the options so far include ugly zip ties and drilling holes. Maybe the solution is out there still ! Thanks for the reply.
Let me be clear in no uncertain terms! For anything drawing more than a couple of amps, you must connect directly to the battery. A heated jacket alone will draw 5~6 amps. Add a pair of gloves and you're now close to 10A. Use 16AWG wire (with fuse) as well which can handle the current. The DDA port is for data, battery tenders and low drawing electronics ONLY. Otherwise you will blow a fuse or worst.
@oldndumb
Much appreciated. @Quip
One more thing after the fact: If you're taking the time and expense to drop the battery to install a harness for heated gear, may I suggest you use the heated gears's proprietary pigtail in addition to an SAE pig tail for your battery tender or other needs. You might as well have two. It will not cost you more to install both now.
does anyone know of a video of a current model 1200 monster to see if i can attach the quick connect cable myself? I've not taken delivery of my 17 1200 s yet but it will be in Jan & would like to decide before my bike is delivered as ill be putting it on the tender. thnx so much
Had I known, I would have had it installed during the pre-delivery prep by the dealer. It cost me more to have it done thereafter.
If you do have it installed, make sure it's a 16AWG SAE with fuse accessible from outside the battery box.
Notwithstanding the above, this is the only video found that came close: Shorai Battery Install How To - Ducati Monster 1200s
I'm pleased to have had it done in front of me. It was a good experience as I would now not hesitate to do it myself going forward. Try to be there if you can.
I don't mind too much that the battery removal is a longer than normal process if it helps placing the center of gravity lower.
What I would like Ducati to work on is providing us with access to the positive and negative poles by simply removing the top cover.
The battery only weighs a few pounds, I really don't think it's weight is a difference you would feel being that low or all Japanese bikes wwould do the same. If the gas tank were lighter that would help a lot though (carbon one I've seen online)
I have installed heated grips on two of my bikes recently. One is an S4RS. Both have Battery Tender leads installed. And I am looking at installing aftermarket horns, which require more amps than the stock horn wiring will support.
One hot lead to the battery, 8 gage wire. Six spots for fuses, each with an output...up to 30 amps per. Plenty of capacity. Each item will be grounded to the frame. Only the one lead to the positive side of the battery, none to the negative.
Make sure to consider your alternator's output.
The heated grips (heated gear in your case) may be on for a while. My grips are 36 watts on high...not a huge draw.
My horn is only used in emergencies, so constant draw is zero.
The Battery Tender is an input, not an output, so draw is zero.
Yes, there is a link in my post. I just clicked it and it worked for me. If it doesn't work for you, the supplier is Del City, the item is a "ATC® & ATO® 6 Ganged Fuse Block".
I don't need 8 gage but this is the only one I found with one input and multiple outputs. It says the entire block is rated for 65 amps, but my guess is they think somebody will stick in six 30-amp fuses and try to light up the Eiffel Tower...so the heavier wire is insurance.
I was looking for something smaller, but couldn't find anything. I ordered one of these Friday. When I install, I'll follow up, with pics if I can figure it out...
@orionengnr
I should have checked the link...my bad.
Wow, that's a big boy. I'll be curious to see how you're going to mount it and also weather proof it.
FYI, I'm all set up with a 16AGW and it works well with a heated liner and gloves.
Can you show me a pic of the one you are using?
16 ga would be fine, and 3-4 outputs would be plenty...just can't find one that matches that description.
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