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Old 03-14-2011, 10:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How To: S4Rs Termi pipe shorten w/pics

Hey all,

Picked up an S4Rs late last year that had a full Termi system already installed. I was always a fan of the Arrow system, and had one on my 07 S4R. I always thought the Termis just looked too long. Particularly if the tail was chopped....which I was going to do. So I decided to cut the Termi pipes down. What follows is the basic steps I took...as best as I could when I remembered to take pics.

Tools you’ll need:
Basic tools to remove and install the exhaust canisters
Dremel with diamond cutting wheel (EZ545 with EZ 502 shaft)
Shop vac
Painters tape
Drill and bits
Aluminum rivets and rivet gun
Hacksaw
Soft blow hammer
Utility knife
A whole shitload of patience

I started by taking a picture of the bike from the previous owner and doing a virtual hack job in photoshop. The hack job refers more to my photoshop skills, but it gave me an idea of the right length for the shortened pipes.

Here is a pic of the bike with stock rear fender and stock length Termis.



Here is my photoshopped version.



I measured the images and the shortened pipes were 84% of the stock pipes. With a stock length of 403mm, that worked out to about 339mm total. That meant I’d need to take about 2.5” off the tip end. NO real reason to switch from metric to inches. Just the easier side of the measuring tape.



Before I began the disassembly, it was critical to mark a centerline that ran down the can, the band, and the exhaust tip. That would ensure the cap could be realigned in the right position.



At this point is was time to measure and remeasure how much needed to come off. I used more tape to show how short the cans would be, and where the new decals would line up.






Last edited by grazi; 03-15-2011 at 10:26 AM. Reason: misspelling
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Part 2

At this point I needed to remind myself of the bracket orientation



At this point it was time to drill out the rivet and tap out the end cap. The drilling is pretty straightforward. And the end cap comes out with patient, even tapping all around the edge.





With the end cap off, it was time to mark where to make the cut. I measured back 2.5” from the end, and used a hose clamp to draw the even line. I also decided to leave the clamp on as a cutting guide. I did test a quick test in an area of the waste to see how easily the diamond Dremel bit would cut. It really was like a hot knife through butter.





I had read that cutting carbon created a LOT of dust. So I set up my shop vac to catch the dust as it was created. It worked perfectly with no mess. I used the hose clamp as a “hard” guide and rotated the pipe about 90 degree after each quarter cut. This is a shot of the test cut.



With the carbon cut through, I then used the clamp to tighten the packing to make it easier to cut with the utility knife. You can see how clean and straight the carbon edge is from the diamond Dremel cutoff wheel.


Last edited by grazi; 03-15-2011 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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With the pack cut through, it revealed a metal mesh inner liner. This layer has a steel wool like sandwich in the middle, and took multiple passes with the utility knife.





From here the perforated metal core needed to be trimmed flush with the new carbon edge. I found it easiest to use the hacksaw to take the largest portion off, as that would let the Dremel get in close enough to make the final cut. From here the final cut was made with the cut off wheel. Patience again.



Now you will see all the parts to ditch.





Lunch break!



The new perfed opening should be opened a bit with a ball peen end and a rat tail file. This will help the end cap slide over more easily.




Last edited by grazi; 03-14-2011 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Part 4

From here partially fit the end cap, aligning the reference line you created at the beginning on the painter’s tape. This allows you to drill the new rivet holes in the exact location. Start with the rounded versus oblong hole in the band and mark with a punch to drill the hole. I used a smaller bit as a pilot hole followed by the correct size bit.



With all the holes drilled, tap the end cap back on. (Note: this shot was taken before all the holes were drilled. Forget to get that shot so used an earlier one to show the soft blow hammer.)



Time to rerivet. Tape the end band back in place clearing the tape away for the rivets. You’ll find the band has a lot of memory and wants to fight you, hence the tape. As I mentioned, I used aluminum rivets that matched near perfectly.





With all the rivets in place, remove the end tape and install the new stickers based on your earlier markings. I found stickers on ebay that have a carbon background and were slightly smaller. Great quality.





Now the fun begins in remounting the pipes and correcting the general misfit from the factory. Many have said the Termi system quality is not up to expectations based on price. While the cans were very well built, the fit and angle was way off. It took me 8 attempts tweaking the brackets to get the fit perfect. As many may know, when you’ve taken something off/on after 3-4 times, it takes almost no time. So making perfect was the only option. Here is a pic before the tail chop, so you can see how much shorter they are.


Last edited by grazi; 03-15-2011 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Typos
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Part 5

After the tail chop, here are a few more pics of the new length.







And a few from the opposite side.





That's it for now. I'm sure I left some details out. But happy to answer them in replies.

BTW, the sounds didn't change much. Still loud and beasty.

Here is a final pic of the diamond Dremel cut off. It really made the work easy.

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Old 03-15-2011, 01:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well done, did you cut the carbon with the dremel? its a nice and neat cut
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capo View Post
Well done, did you cut the carbon with the dremel? its a nice and neat cut
Thanks for the reply. Yes I did cut the carbon with the Dremel and diamond cutoff wheel. Sorry I spaced taking a photo. It cut it so cleanly and quickly I decided to leave the hose clamp on as a guide for fear of going off the line. Best idea I had! The end was perfectly straight and needed zero sanding.

I've read the diamond wheels last quite a long time. Mine showed little wear after trimming the inner perfed tube. The EZ lock design requires you buy the mandrel. Together the two were about $20. Dremel makes a smaller diamond wheel with the simple screw mount for about $11. But I wanted the extra size and eliminating the chance of it slipping with the positive lock of the EZ Lock design. I bought all my Dremel bits online at a place called All Pro. Prices are about 60% of retail.

Last edited by grazi; 03-15-2011 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grazi View Post

Now you will see all the parts to ditch.


What if I'd completely ditch the 2 in the middle, not just the cut off section, but empty the complete can?

I can hardly imagine they'd make that much more noise, and I suppose less restrictions are better for the engine?

Or am I making a massive mistake? ;D
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You would not be making a mistake that you could not correct. It will be loud, very loud and it might cause headaches for you on longer rides. Then when you are sick of it, any good motorcycle shop, especially dirt bike shops, will stock packing fiber that you can wrap around the perforated pipe. You'll just need to drill out the rivets at the top and bottom, wrap the pipe, tape it in place with a fiber tape, then slip the cover back on and rivet it all back in place. I need to do that to my little KX60 about every 10 hours of riding time due to the 2 stroke oil clogging the packing material and on a little performance scoot like that, it matters.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henry-john View Post
What if I'd completely ditch the 2 in the middle, not just the cut off section, but empty the complete can?

I can hardly imagine they'd make that much more noise, and I suppose less restrictions are better for the engine?

Or am I making a massive mistake? ;D
As caferacermike points out, it's something you can go back and repack. Though one thing to note. The layer closest the perforated tube is a special woven metal layer, not unlike steel wool, though ion the Termi it is tightly woven stainless. That might be hard to find. I could venture guesses why they put it there, but I'm sure it was a good reason.

It all depends what you're looking to do. I was fine with the stock sound, I just wanted the pipes shorter. I never run the db killers and find the Termi loud but not obnoxiously loud (like the Arrows I had previously). If you're looking purely for increases sound, taking the packing out (or some of the packing) would seem the way to go.

One last thing to consider. Not sure if with all the packing removed the carbon could be affected by the increased heat. Something you'll have to test but likely won't know any adverse effects until it's too late.

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