New Zard exhaust on S2R1000

[Monstermonkey]

I received and installed my 2-1-2 Zard exhaust today. The first thing you should do when you get these is throw the directions away and smack yourself in the head until it's throbbing. Then you'll be close to understanding the frustration you'll get from trying to read the instructions. First of all, the english translation from Italian makes no sense. There are words that aren't in our dictionary and the words they got right aren't used in the correct context so it's twice as confusing. But have no fear because there are pictures. Actually they are tiny black and white pictures taken in a dark room with no flash.

I've always been good at puzzles and eventually figured out where everything goes. Most of the parts fit pretty good until the pipes with the cans on them. They were a pain in the ass to line up and I had to take my license plate bracket off to wiggle the pipe around. They give you a random selection of washers, spacers, and nuts and bolts. You just have to guess which ones to use. When I was finished I had a whole handful of extra hardware. Oh yeah, you have to re-route the O2 sensor and bend your right heel guard out to install it. Make sure you order the special clamps to mount your heat shields. I didn't but will tonight so my right heel doesn't melt.

Turn the key, hit the button, and ROAR! The pipes sound great. They have baffles in them but I have no idea how to get them out without drilling out the rivets. I wouldn't want them any louder, honestly. They have a nice low rumble at idle, and the note blends nicely with the open clutch. Once the bike warmed up I rolled the throttle a few times. The sound is great but I am getting some popping ad the rpm's come down. It stalled a few times and that worries me. I bought this system because it was designed to work with the stock ECU. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and started it up again. Still some popping but no stalling. I would have taken it for a road test but there's snow on the roads and it's 25 degrees.

Any advice on the popping would be helpful. I still have the stock air box and filter.

[Wanwo]

Are you talking about the standard Zard exhaust system? It's not actually 2-1-2. There's no cross-over of gases. Or do you have something different. Anyway post pics!

Definately try it without the airbox lid (zip tie down the filter) and see how she runs.

Are you sure your baffles are riveted? I ordered some a few months after getting my Zards. They hold in place with very tiny hex bolts. The nut is welded into the baffle. I'm just surprised they would rivet them in. I know you don't want louder. Just thinking of airflow options to try to make it run better.

[748s]

If you get down (underneath) and look up at the end of the pipe you'll see a small hole.
The hole is in the shiny bit at the end of the carbon.
stick a small allen key in the hole and turn.
You'll remove a small screw/bolt.
once its out you can pull the baffle out.
repeat for the other side.

There is some pics of the hole here
http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/ind...980#msg1026980

They will pop and fart with the stock ECU.
I got a DP ECU and open airbox.
Unfortunatley the idle was anywhere between 1800 and 2500rpm.
The dealer said nothing can be done due to the stepper motor.
I put the stock ecu and airbox back on.
Idle was way to high.
I'm trying to get a normal idle with the DP ECU

Some stuff re the S2R1000
http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/str1000%20.html
and the last paragraphs on this page
http://www.moto-one.com.au/performan...t1000zard.html

[Monstermonkey]

Thanks for the baffle hole info and the links.

The collector pipe does have an opening where the pipes meet, allowing the gasses to exchange. It's about three inches long and about an inch wide.

Too bad you bought the DP ECU and had idling issues. Nothing is worse than throwing money at a problem only to NOT fix it.

I'll take some pics today and play around with the air box and baffles. I'll let you know what I find out.

[uclabiker66]

I would not take that advice. Opening your air box will only add to your problems. You need to adjust you fuel/air mixture to stop the popping. This takes about an hour of labor. The Zard system is an after market system so it will work only so well with your stock ECU. A fuel air adjustment is included in the 6K maintenance so if you could wait until your next service then things should get better. DO NOT open up your air box without re mapping.

[FastM]

Popping might be caused by an air leak (into the exhaust). Make sure the clamps are tight and there are no leaks.

[Monstermonkey]

I just tried to upload some pics but the site wouldn't let me. I'll try again later.

One of the pics was of the access hole in the can for baffle removal. There is a hole, but nothing but the end of the pipe showing through it. No allen head bolt. Nothing.

About the air leak theory. There are NO clamps on this system. Everything is pressure fit with springs holding the parts together. The pipes are tight to the cylinders and all the mounting hardware seems to be in the right place. Nothing is wiggling around.

I warmed it up this morning and then played with the throttle a little. Not as much popping as yesterday. One or two little burps after revving up to about 7000-8000 rpm. No stalling. Idle is between 1200 and 1300. It's sunny out so if some snow melts I'll take it for a spin around the hood.

I am going to be due for my 7500 mile check up when I get back from Cali around the first of the year. I was going to do it myself, but I may as well have them dial it in for me. It's only money, right?

[29045]

My arrows popped a lot when I lost the air sensor bolt.... guess you really do need that crush washer in there to keep them things from vibrating loose.

[uclabiker66]

+1 check all the joints AND make sure those two screws going into the mufflers at the triangle brackets are tight (mine vibrated loose on my right can and so I had a leak that went unnoticed for a long time. You used high-temp gasket maker at the joints right?

[748s]

use high temp gasket maker at all the joins.
Looks a tight fit but there will be leaks without that stuff.
Dont use an open airbox with stock ecu, already to lean.