| Rain
Riding-
by Various DML Members on
5/22/2003 |
| General Strategies / Riding Style Riding (or driving) at the limit of adhesion requires smoothness. It's those sharp, transient inputs that put you over the limit! In rain of course, as the traction limits are lower you're more likely to be near/at them in normal riding on public roads. This assumes you've got tires that work in the rain and have good tread left. Otherwise, you have a LOT less traction! Consider riding a gear high. It makes you less likely to spin the tire when accelerating and creates less engine braking. Be a little less aggressive on the throttle than you normally are and use a little less lean angle (that means a little less speed through the corners). Try to ride in another car's tire path - there will be less water build up there and more traction. Try to avoid the middle of the lane where oil builds up. Be very careful during the first hour of rain... very slick everywhere because the fresh rain will bring oils to the surface of the road as well as wash away built up rubber. The other thing is that your ability to see the road surface conditions will be degraded. There's still a lot of sand out there so you've got to allow for that. Depending on how hard it's coming down when you ride, your visibility to drivers may also be degraded. Give 'em more room. The key here is smoothness, and for that you have to be relaxed but stay attentive. So take all the tips from this FAQ, and be aware of danger areas. But DON'T get frightened and tense up. It's counterproductive. The key to riding safely and even (as some people report) enjoying rain riding is to get comfortable and relax. Wet
Weather Braking Rain Riding Hazards
Staying Dry The
Bargain Approach: If
you're not worried about looks, etc, and don't want to spend
lots of
$$, keep a 50 gallon trash bag and a roll of duc tape at the office.
Poke holes in the trash bag for your head and hands and duc tape
the bag
around you (be sure to leave enough slack in areas where there's
a lot
of movement, but tape all baggy parts up so they don't get caught
on If you happen to have snowboarding gear (most of it is waterproof), wear that. I used to wear 'boarding pants and a ski jacket atop my leathers in the winter. If you already have decent riding pants/jacket, and/or are on a budget, Frog Toggs make a good slip-on rainsuit that works well & compacts nicely. Top & bottom set for $60-ish. Aerostitch: In serious rain, the Roadcrafter suit is good but not 100%, especially on a nekkid bike like a Monster. You will be fine in light to moderate rain, intermittent showers or a light steady rain, but a moderate steady rain or downpour will first soak your crotch and then the rest of you. If you plan on riding all day through the rain, you will need a dedicated rainsuit. For commuting, however, an aerostitch can't be beat, especially in hi-viz yellow. The Darien line (2 piece) is in my experience damn near impervious to rain, which is it's purpose in life. Goretex, tape backing all seams, etc, etc. It's totally awesome. About $300, but worth it. I have just the Darien pants, and rode through some pretty insane weather since I've had them, and didn't observe a drop making its way through. Faceshields Face shield water buildup. Try polishing the outside of your faceshield with some auto wax (carnauba). That way the rain will bead up and off. You can also turn your head to clear the droplets. Rain-X is specifically not recommended for faceshields as it reportedly can cause delamination of the plastic. (Some members do use it, or the Rain-X wipes, however and have not had any problems. YMMV) Some gloves also come with a little squeege built into the index finger, but this in itself probably isn't enough to do the job. Lastly... |
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