Editorial Note:
The break-in FAQ has been recently revised. One member provided some recommendations that contradicted the factory guidance. After consultation with the DML technical advisory board I've decided to remove them. What we now have are the Ducati factory recommendations verbatim from the manual, and one member's personal interpretation of those recommendations. I hope you find them useful.

The sections are as follows:

• Ducati Factory Recommendations
• Joe "Wolvie" Recommendations

Standard Ducati running-in recommendations:

Ducati Running-in recommendations Max. rotation speed (fig. 25) Rotation speed for running-in period and during standard use (rpm): 1) up to 1000 km; 2) from 1000 to 2500 km; 3) after 2500 km.   Up to 1000 km During the first 1000 km, keep the revolution meter under control. The indicator must not exceed: 5500-6000 rpm. During the first hours of riding, it is advisable to run the engine at varying load and rpm, though still within recommended limit. To this end, roads with plenty of bends and even slightly hilly areas are ideal for a most efficient running-in of engine, brakes and suspensions. For the first 100 km, use the brakes gently. Do not brake violently or keep brake applied for too long. This will enable a correct break-in of friction material on brake pads against brake discs. For all mechanical parts of the motorcycle to adapt to one another and above all not to adversely affect the life of basic engine parts, it is advisable to avoid harsh accelerations and not to run the engine at high rpm for too long, especially uphill. Furthermore, the drive chain should be inspected frequently. Lubricate it as required. From 1000 to 2500 km At this point, you can squeeze some more power out of your engine, being careful, however, to never exceed: 7500 rpm. This FAQ is provided for your information, with the understanding that you follow it at your own risk, and that deviating from the manufacturer's recommendation may affect your warranty rights. - Michael Moore, DML Webmaster

Joe "Wolvie" Recommendations
The purpose of this FAQ is to offer an alternative method to break in recommendations and procedures. Please note that these procedures are totally compliant with all of the manufacturer's recommendations.

Some people believe in utilizing race techniques for breaking in a street bike. I would advise against it. I feel that engine break in for a race engine is very different from street bikes. Race engines have parts that are built to different tolerances that for the most part must be broken in fast. The reason for this is that these parts are quite expendable. Many will be switched out or tinkered with from race to race. This is an option that is not available to a street bike. There is a significant difference between rings that must last 1,000 miles and those you expect to last 50,000 or more. The same holds true for any of the top end components, as they are the most susceptible to damage from an incorrect break in process.

As an additional point, I do not feel that the racetrack is a good place to break in a street bike. Again, race spec engines and parts are different from street bike engines. A big example of this is the brakes. Race bikes for the most part use full metallic brakes, not the semi or non-metallic pads we use on the street. Metallic brakes and rotors break in and mate to each other very fast. It is because of the high metal content in the pads that causes them to stay hot while being used and the increased wear on the rotors. Metallic pads are not used on the street because they are designed for harsh and frequent use. As a matter of fact, cool metallic brake pads will not even stop a bike in an acceptable distance and will only work well once hot. This is the reason they are not designed (or recommended) for street use. Very hard or sustained breaking on new pads and rotors designed for the street should be avoided for the first 100 or so miles. Breaking in a bike on the track with brand new street pads will most likely glaze the surface of the pads causing them to harden. This will result in less effective performance of the pads, damage to the rotor and squealing. The only possible fix for this would be to resurface the pads (and rotor if necessary) or full replacement of the parts.

Here is my break in advice:

1) Never, and I mean never, exceed the max tach speed listed in the manual during break in. On my M1000 this was 6K for the first 600 Miles.

2) Don't lug the engine. Lugging the engine is when you keep the RPM's too low. On the M1000, this would mean anything below 2K. Lugging the engine, especially under load (uphill, etc) actually puts more stress on the component parts and can easily foul your plugs. Keep engine RPM between 2.5K and 5K during break in.

3) Get in the habit of keeping the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in during traffic stops. This is not so much a break in feature as much as a safety feature. You will be helpless if a car is heading towards you if you are stopped and sitting upright with the bike in neutral. Some will argue that this can cause undue wear on the clutch...I think of it as cheap insurance. FWIW, I have gone over 20K on other bikes doing just that and have not seen any premature wear on the clutch.

4) Go to the store and buy all of the tools needed to fit all of the fasteners on your bike...screws, bolts, hex bolts, etc. During break in, it is very common for fittings to become loose. Check to make sure that the fittings are all tight before you go out to ride when the bike is cold...NOT when it's hot. Once the bike is broken in, do this at least once a month. Remember to keep an eye on the chain tension during this period, as this will be the time it will most likely do the most stretching.

5) Keep the bike clean. Leaks will be much more apparent on a clean bike. Personally, I use S100 cleaner. I haven't found anything easier to use.

6) 180 to 220 is what I have experienced on my oil temperature as well. My mechanic says this is normal.

7) Lube the chain AFTER your ride is finished and not before you go out. A hot chain will allow better lubricant penetration and if allowed to sit overnight will minimize "lube-throw" on your rear wheel.

8) If you find that there is a lack of twisty canyon roads in your area (like me as I'm in NYC), then on the highway alternate between 5th and 6th gear every few minutes. Engine break in is most effective at varying engine speeds. Just ensure you don't over-rev the engine.

9) Those new tires probably still have that slippery release compound still on the sides after only 100 miles. Release compound is what the tire manufacturers use to pop the tire out of the mould during production. The only way to really get it off is to scrub it off during riding. Find a parking lot that you can do slow but steep turns in to scrub the tires. Do this ONLY when the tires are warm! 10 minutes of this should take care of the problem.

10) During break in, try to make sure you use gentle but FIRM pressure on the brakes. Try not to keep the brake compressed while at a stop if at all possible. The rotors and pads need time to "mate" to each other. Also keep an eye on the brake and clutch fluid levels as they can go down a bit when these new components are first used. If you are still above the "Minimum" levels, let your mechanic top them off during your 600-mile service.
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